Engine cranks over real slow, then faster. - Speedwake 2.0
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
djm
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Engine cranks over real slow, then faster (FIXED)

What would cause the engine to crank over really slow then speeds up to normal after a couple of seconds? It takes 2 batteries to crank it over hot or cold.

Engine is 7.4MPI with only 40 hours on it. The boat sat for 3 years before I bought it everything else works fine.

Last edited by djm; 04-26-2008 at 12:41 PM.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 02:44 PM
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1st thing comes to mind is timing too high..

"Women who behave rarely make history"
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 03:03 PM
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Retard the ign. timing a bit and then see if that helps..
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 03:11 PM
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Check Batt connections....could be a bad ground cable or corrosion inside the cable ends causing resistance
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wally
Check Batt connections....could be a bad ground cable or corrosion inside the cable ends causing resistance
Ditto. Check your connections/cables!
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-28-2008, 07:28 AM
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sounds like a starter to me...been there
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-28-2008, 07:46 AM
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you can rule out timing quickly by pulling the distributer wire and cranking again. if it cranks normal, it's your timing. If not it either starter or bad ground.
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-29-2008, 07:57 AM
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Just for another idea to check if the above mentioned are OK. In my last boat I had a header fail letting water creep into the cylinders when I shut it off. Then when I would started it, it would hydraulic (roll very slow) till the water was pushed out. The it would start. it didn't last long, I ended up blowing the head gasket out and wrecking the block and head .

Don't mean to scare you, just throwing that out there.
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Got to messing with the boat yesterday and today. After removing the trim pump to change the solenoids (PITA) I tried to fire her up. All I got was wurrrr....wurrr.....wurrr..... and then nothing. Not even a good crank. Now all I get is a click.

Connections are tight. I traced the positives (dual batteries) all around the bilge and the negatives to the rear of the block. All are tight, although I didn't clean the negatives on the back of the block. They don't look corroded.

Is there any way to know if it's the starter without taking it out of the boat? Removing the plugs maybe?

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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 05:10 PM
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TAKE THE PLUGS OUT AND CRANK.

Sounds to me like you have water in one or more of the cylinders.
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 05:49 PM
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Yes try taking the plugs out, at least to eliminate the possibility of water in the cylinders..
If that's good,
then get an inductive DC Amp tester, sears has them, and place over your positive cable to the starter and crank over, if it exceeds around 190 Amps, change the starter.
You may want to check for voltage drop to all points, neg. and pos test. cables, relays, etc.

Are you sure your batteries are up to snuff.?? how old are they? are they rated for the proper Cold Cranking Amps for your engine? or they may have just lost there cranking amp power.
You should of never of needed 2 batteries to crank your engine over from the start..
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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I just pulled one bank of plugs with the same result..... click.

I'm going back out there to see if I can crank it by hand.

Batteries are brand new last June. Been on a trickle charger all winter. One is 745 multi purpose the other is 1000 starting. Definitely not a battery issue! My old boat had a 454 MAG and started up with my half dead portable jumber pack.
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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Cranks over hard by hand but it does move smoothly. I felt it hit the next compression stroke and I couldn't go any further. If I had removed all 8 plugs I think it would've kept going. Does that mean I can rule out a bad engine

So what should I do next? Grab that Sears tool I suppose?

How much is a marine starter anyway? Pretty tough to get at in my boat. Not sure if I'd do it myself.

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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 07:00 PM
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No, doesn't mean you have a bad engine.

Take out one side at a time (10 minute job) crank it over (with the key), it water shoots out one of the holes, you need to look further.

Does the oil appear normal in color?
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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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If water were in the cylinders would I be able to crank it by hand?

Oil is perfect.
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post #16 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 05:03 AM
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Yes you would if it was a small amount of water because of the cam over lap, but I still think it is a bad starter...but please check the cylinders for water to make sure. If it is all dry, put a starter on it.

I awsume you did check the cables and made sure the engine has a good ground.
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post #17 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 05:26 AM
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Starter isn't going to be that bad of a job. Even if you have to lay across the motor to get down there to it.
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post #18 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 06:28 AM
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if all your hearing is a click, then you have a bad solenoid on your starter. Take it out and bench test your starter and noid. Then if its bad go get a new one. if there is water in your motor it should still turn over.
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post #19 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 08:15 AM
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I had a 242ss, Whew Not a very fun job changing the starter. The biggest pain in the a$$ is there are two bolts that hold it on and one is right up against the flywheel cover. Unless they changed it on your newer engine. I couldnt get a socket on it or a box end of a combo wrench. Ended up grinding the end of I believe a 9/16 tubing wrench to where it just fit onto the bolt head and doubling up on the combos to get enough leverage to loosen it. I wasnt going to go through it twice so I installed a ARCO high torque marine starter, that one came with Allen head socket cap screws, much better. Good luck
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post #20 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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I think I have to pull the manifold to get to the starter. I've done my own boat maintenence in the past but this bilge is rediculous. If you look at the pic you'll see the white shelves on either side. When I lay down and put my face where the battery would be I can't even see the spark plugs.

Does the manifold have studs for easy assembly or bolts?
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