PDA

View Full Version : rebuilding trim tab rams


axkiker
03-13-2007, 11:06 PM
Has anyone rebuilt their trim tab rams. Since I bought this boat the tabs have never seems right. I know one is leaking cause I can see that. So I figure its time to rebuild both. The lines are also shot so they need to be replaced as well. Anyone have some advice hints or tricks.

Where can you get the parts or is it just a bunch of different O-rings.

man-of-war
03-13-2007, 11:42 PM
Originally posted by axkiker
Has anyone rebuilt their trim tab rams. Since I bought this boat the tabs have never seems right. I know one is leaking cause I can see that. So I figure its time to rebuild both. The lines are also shot so they need to be replaced as well. Anyone have some advice hints or tricks.

Where can you get the parts or is it just a bunch of different O-rings.





axkiker, when you open the one that's leaking take some pix for us to see. we may be able to help when we see inside.
But before you do open it up call the manufacture to find out if they sell replacement parts.

Canada Jeff
03-14-2007, 08:02 AM
Find a local hydraulic repair shop and bring them to it. Nothing special about the cylinders. Local shop can match after market seals and rebuild it. They should offer warranty with the repair.

Holy Smokes!
03-14-2007, 06:56 PM
Easy to rebuild. Just like Jeff said, go to a local hydraulics shop, they can match up the O-rings and seals and have to back in business in no time.

Also, Merc sells a rebuild kit. Look on BAM's website.

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_Pictures3.asp?dnbr=41573%2094H&ivar=images/QS/41573.94H/26.png&inbr=2443&bnbr=280&bdesc=CYLINDER+ASSEMBLY%2DHYDRAULIC+%28843949A1%29

chimchim
03-14-2007, 08:48 PM
clean, clean ,clean, is al i can say if you do them yourself. not hard to do, just when you take them apart little chips of paint and dirt will stick in the oil. clean and dry them, then lightly lube the seals as you put them together

before you screw the top back on ,pour some fluid in the cylinder to get them started, then just, up down up down up down to bleed them out

axkiker
03-14-2007, 09:22 PM
well here is the inside of a cylinder for all who have not seen. Pretty basic setup. Im gonna make a run to the hydraulic shop tomorrow and get the seals


thankshttp://www.speedwake.com/photopost/data/500/DSC00004.JPG

axkiker
03-14-2007, 09:38 PM
Originally posted by Holy Smokes!
Easy to rebuild. Just like Jeff said, go to a local hydraulics shop, they can match up the O-rings and seals and have to back in business in no time.

Also, Merc sells a rebuild kit. Look on BAM's website.

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_Pictures3.asp?dnbr=41573%2094H&ivar=images/QS/41573.94H/26.png&inbr=2443&bnbr=280&bdesc=CYLINDER+ASSEMBLY%2DHYDRAULIC+%28843949A1%29


I think you are misunderstanding me. Im working on the trim tab cylinders not the trim rams.

chaos10meter
03-15-2007, 09:56 AM
Originally posted by axkiker
I think you are misunderstanding me. Im working on the trim tab cylinders not the trim rams.

:confused:

FA18Driver
03-15-2007, 10:13 AM
I don't think he has a set of k-planes like shown by Holy Smokes. His are the little ones that Baja uses, Sorta like a Bennett or Lenco maybe.

axkiker
03-15-2007, 10:33 AM
Originally posted by FA18Driver
I don't think he has a set of k-planes like shown by Holy Smokes. His are the little ones that Baja uses, Sorta like a Bennett or Lenco maybe.

yeah I have the little ghetto baja ones. When I looked at the diagram in the above post it looked like the hydraulic ram on the outdrive. I guess it was really a larger kplane tab and I didnt realize it.

man-of-war
03-15-2007, 11:22 AM
axkiker, I know it does not matter at this point because your going to replace all of the O rings. did you find the O ring that was damaged??

BTW , your the man :) show us how it's done !!

axkiker
03-15-2007, 12:04 PM
Originally posted by man-of-war
axkiker, I know it does not matter at this point because your going to replace all of the O rings. did you find the O ring that was damaged??

BTW , your the man :) show us how it's done !!

well no I didnt find anything that looked damaged. the way the seals work is kinda weird. There are 2 seals that are cupped. The top cupped seal has an O ring that sets inside of it. The lower cupped seal didnt have the o ring in it. So my first thought was that the lower o-ring broke and was gone however I didnt see it in the cylinder. there is no real way for it to get out so im not sure where it would have gone. Anyways Im going to see if I can get all the seals at a hydo shop and replace them all anyways.

man-of-war
03-15-2007, 01:22 PM
Originally posted by axkiker
well no I didnt find anything that looked damaged. the way the seals work is kinda weird. There are 2 seals that are cupped. The top cupped seal has an O ring that sets inside of it. The lower cupped seal didnt have the o ring in it. So my first thought was that the lower o-ring broke and was gone however I didnt see it in the cylinder. there is no real way for it to get out so im not sure where it would have gone. Anyways Im going to see if I can get all the seals at a hydo shop and replace them all anyways.




axkiker, I'm assuming your doing both cylinders. If so, take a look and see if the other cylinder has the O ring in the lower cupped seal.
you could use Varsol to clean your stuff with. don't use gas or lacquer thinner. it will triple the size of rubber and melt plastic.

axkiker
03-15-2007, 02:02 PM
well i just got back from the parker store. they knew exactly what all the seals were and ordered them in for me. I didnt get a price but they said they were really cheap. They said it should only be a couple days so once I get the part#'s ill post them so everyone knows what to order if they need them.

so in the time being it gives me a good opportunity to bling them out a little with some blue paint to match the hatch actuators.

Canada Jeff
03-16-2007, 07:46 AM
Just be sure to check the inside of the 'cylinders' where the seal seat. Seals don't often fail for no reason. Run your finger nail around the inside of the cylinder to see if there are any scratches. A scratch from top to bottm will act like a knife on the seals.

Good luck.

axkiker
04-24-2007, 12:20 PM
OK so I got my tabs all rebuilt and back together. Painted them all nice and pretty and ran them on the river last weekend for thunder over louisville. What a difference that it made. Im guessing all last year my tabs did absolutly nothing. It made crossing wakes and high speed stability much improved.

Now here is the kicker. The da@# things are leaking again and wont go down at all. I dont know why and really at this point dont care. Does anyone have a set of the instatrim cylinders in good shape they would like to sell.

I found some in stainless but since I want to sell the boat i dont know if I want to pony up that kind of money on them right now.

man-of-war
04-24-2007, 02:55 PM
Originally posted by axkiker
OK so I got my tabs all rebuilt and back together. Painted them all nice and pretty and ran them on the river last weekend for thunder over louisville. What a difference that it made. Im guessing all last year my tabs did absolutly nothing. It made crossing wakes and high speed stability much improved.

Now here is the kicker. The da@# things are leaking again and wont go down at all. I dont know why and really at this point dont care. Does anyone have a set of the instatrim cylinders in good shape they would like to sell.

I found some in stainless but since I want to sell the boat i dont know if I want to pony up that kind of money on them right now.

axkiker, COULD YOU LINK ME TO THE STAINLESS RAMS?


Look for MattBMiller he has a set for sale.
I was going to put them on my Wellcraft but!!

axkiker
04-24-2007, 03:03 PM
Originally posted by man-of-war
axkiker, COULD YOU LINK ME TO THE STAINLESS RAMS?


Look for MattBMiller he has a set for sale.
I was going to put them on my Wellcraft but!!


\the rams I found are made by bimba. They make alot of phenumatic cylinders and also have a line of polished stainless hydraulic rams. They are by no means specifically for the boating industry but I think they will work well.


They can make them in any configuration you choose and can even include things such as piston position csensors. Which should be able to be used with tab position gauges

I believe its bimba.com. Im at work so ill check when I get home and if its not ill shoot up the correct link. or you can probably google bimba phenumatics.

US1Fountain
04-24-2007, 08:49 PM
Originally posted by axkiker
OK so I got my tabs all rebuilt and back together. Painted them all nice and pretty and ran them on the river last weekend for thunder over louisville.

Off track here, but how was the Thunder this yr? I told the group I've gone with I bet it was going to be one of the best because of the weather. I've been twice. 3 yrs ago and it was the best fireworks show I ever seen. 2 yrs ago, it was cold and snowed, so we spent all the time in the hotel. Luckly facing the show. Last yr forgot about it till to late to book a room.
I loved it when the fireworks are going off and setting the car alarms off in the hotel parking lot from the ground shaking!

It's one of those things you just have to see.

axkiker
04-24-2007, 08:55 PM
Originally posted by US1Fountain
Off track here, but how was the Thunder this yr? I told the group I've gone with I bet it was going to be one of the best because of the weather. I've been twice. 3 yrs ago and it was the best fireworks show I ever seen. 2 yrs ago, it was cold and snowed, so we spent all the time in the hotel. Luckly facing the show. Last yr forgot about it till to late to book a room.
I loved it when the fireworks are going off and setting the car alarms off in the hotel parking lot from the ground shaking!

It's one of those things you just have to see.


yeah you are totally right. Its one of thoes things you must see in person. Just the shear pounding you take from the firework blast is impressive. As always it seemed to be a little better and longer than last year. The weather was great but the river could have been a little lower. The current made it a pain to get anchored. I ended up moving to a shallow (15') section of river where I could get my 100' of line to settle and hook into the mud.

All in all it was pretty good. Other than the river being up it was a total success. I made it in and out without anything major happening so I think it was great

trishark
04-25-2007, 10:22 AM
The lip seals use the o-ring in the middle for preload. I believe you said the one facing outside had the o-ring. The one facing the inside uses oil pressure inside the "u" to set the seal.

If your tabs are not going up, it is probably the external hoses or valves. The two seals on the piston should face opposite directions. Even if both were set for down, extending the cylinder, the tab weights so little that the seal should have enough interferrence to cause the cylinder to retract.

Most cylinder rods have a taper between the threaded end and the shaft diameter to allow the seals to slide onto the shaft with out nicking the seal. Most seals have .010 to .015 of interference fit. Is the rod leak at the end cap to rod interface or where the end cap screws in?

Buffing the rod while rotating it with a drill might smooth it enough to keep it from leaking. They usually chrome plate the rod to keep them from wearing and corroding.

Mike

axkiker
04-25-2007, 03:40 PM
Originally posted by trishark
The lip seals use the o-ring in the middle for preload. I believe you said the one facing outside had the o-ring. The one facing the inside uses oil pressure inside the "u" to set the seal.

If your tabs are not going up, it is probably the external hoses or valves. The two seals on the piston should face opposite directions. Even if both were set for down, extending the cylinder, the tab weights so little that the seal should have enough interferrence to cause the cylinder to retract.

Most cylinder rods have a taper between the threaded end and the shaft diameter to allow the seals to slide onto the shaft with out nicking the seal. Most seals have .010 to .015 of interference fit. Is the rod leak at the end cap to rod interface or where the end cap screws in?

Buffing the rod while rotating it with a drill might smooth it enough to keep it from leaking. They usually chrome plate the rod to keep them from wearing and corroding.

Mike

no these are not nearly fancy enough to have any type of chrome plating. They are just the generic insta trim type.


i found a few on ebay im looking at and have a source for stainless rams if needed. however i plan on selling so i dont think i want to go with stainless.