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Bayley

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Motor #1 Back from Tyler Crocket

I went and picked up the first of my engines from Tyler Crocket this past Thursday. I’ll try to keep everything short and to the point, but Tyler came through and got everything straightened out for me. I am really amazed at how much he has learned about the MEFI system in the past few years. When I went to pick up the engines, he sat me down and showed all the calibration tables he had to change in the ECU. It appeared that he knew he his way around the calibration tables quite well, which was a big relief for me.

He also gave me actual dyno results, as apposed to engine builder #1 who gave me nothing for the second dyno tests he supposedly performed :rolleyes: . With the large(r) blower pulley making 6 psi of boost, the engine made 645 hp at 5500 rpm. I have no doubt that the smaller pulley making 9 – 10 psi of boost would yield 700 hp, but I’m going to play things on the “safe” side right now until I am 110% sure everything is worked out. Heck, I might never even need to step up to the smaller pulley… yeah right!!!

Obviously Tyler had to make a few “changes” to these motors since the first build was screwed up so badly. With a fresh set of head gaskets, he started the engine up on the dyno only to notice the oil pressure was about 5 – 10 psi at idle. Supposedly the distributor height was waaay off resulting in low oil pressure up in the valve train. Tyler had to machine some material off the block in order to get the distributor height correct. He also installed a high volume oil pump in place of the stock Mer Cruiser part. This brought the idle oil PSI up to about 60 – 65 psi.

Next, he started running the engine under partial loads just to see how the mixture was. At idle, the mixture was around 12.0 : 1 (rich). As soon as any load was placed, the mixture would drop to about 14.0 : 1 (lean) and steadily lean out as more and more load was placed on the engine. Tyler said he stopped loading the engine (which was about 50% load) when he saw 16.0 : 1 on the A/F meter (piston melting lean).

To make for better drivability, Tyler added a 2 bar MAP sensor and recalibrated the ECU to accommodate for the new sensor parameters. He also changed about every single portion of the fuel map. At idle, he finally wound up with 13.5 : 1 and at WOT he was averaging about 11.0 : 1.

This is where the engine should have been from day one. My main questions still remain:

Why was the Whipple ECU reflash so incredibly lean?
Why was this issue not red flagged by the original engine builder as a potential catastrophic failure?

Anyway, I had Dadinator drop off engine #2 on Friday at Tyler’s place. It took Tyler about two weeks to get engine number 1 straightened out. I would imagine the second engine should go a little quicker.

Here’s the numbers from one of the dyno runs:
 

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I must of seen your 502 on the dyno, My suggestion is to let Tyler make the mods and get rid of the Whipple ECU and stuff. and get it done the way Tyler likes to do it.

One word of caution, Do not change the spark plugs to anything else without talking to him first. I found out the hard way.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Milord said:
Right on Bayley, that sounds a little bettter. You might get some nice October boating in yet!
Yeah, October of 2005 maybe! :rolleyes: ;)

(P.S. Love the Avatar)


Quiet Storm, Motors are twin 502 MAG's with a moderate head porting and slightly larger cam shaft.

Ray, we (Dad and I) saw your PQ in the back lot a few weeks back when we first went looking for Tyler. I sersiouly thought about switching over 100% to Tylers setup, but we've already dumped waaay to much money into this project this summer and weren't in any position to dump more. Also, Tyler looked at the setup and commented that it should work just fine with a few ECU cal changes. I'm happy with the results he gave me from the dyno... lets just see if the head gaskets can stay together in the boat now.
 
Still a Mystery

After the second melt down (blown head gaskets due to lean condition) we had the Mercruiser ECU's checked for fault codes. No fault code recorded for the Knock Sensor on either engine. Anybody care to speculate why knock sensor didn't actuate? I'm assuming that lean condition, caused knock which should have resulted in the timing being pulled back by the knock sensor functioning.
 
On that dyno chart is the water temp shown at below 100 during the run. If so that helps me trying to figure out my way to rich whipple [sent ecu in twice now] thought I was running to cold. Time to contact Tyler,getting tired of changing oil after every run.
 
Re: Still a Mystery

Dadinator said:
After the second melt down (blown head gaskets due to lean condition) we had the Mercruiser ECU's checked for fault codes. No fault code recorded for the Knock Sensor on either engine. Anybody care to speculate why knock sensor didn't actuate? I'm assuming that lean condition, caused knock which should have resulted in the timing being pulled back by the knock sensor functioning.
Good question to ask Tyler or hopefully someone on the board knows.

I am very familiar with the GM computers used in the older GM vehicles, not the Delphi MEFI's used in these boats.

The GM computers I'm used to does this for knock:
Each time the engine is started and then the throttle is applied over 70% the computer 'self induces' a very quick timing spike to make a quick period of detonation to make sure the knock sensor circuit is working correctly.If the knock sensor does not pick this up and send a signal to the computer the computer will see there is a problem with the knock sensor circuit and set a code. It will not, however, set a code if the knock sensor is continuosly detecting a knock.

I have had no knock codes after spitting headgaskets from detonation either. I've assumed that is because these MEFI's do it the same way.
 
Speedwake said:
is there any way to test the proper functioning of the knock sensor?
Yes, he's right. With a hammer. Slightly tap the block near the knock sensor with the engine running and use the scan tool to see if the knock sensor picks it up.

You could also use a timing light to see if the timing backs down while you do this but is no where as near as accurate as using the scan tool.

FYI: knock sensors usually produce a AC voltage, not DC. This is why knock meters are more $ than other guages.
 
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