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Discussion starter · #41 ·
cfm said:
Cool, so with flat tops you'll have like 7.5:1. Perfect for a 12-71. :winker: :winker:
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Discussion starter · #44 ·
cstraub said:
What is the dome volume on your pistons and us red necks will just check how accurate the big boys are at figuring compression ratio. I bet you are 11 to 1.

Chris
Chris-
I confirmed by measuring myself the stroke is for sure a 4.50. I measured 4.52 but my micrometer is nothing special so close enough for my book. According to this link my domes are 43cc. :D http://www.flatlanderracing.com/jepistonchevyb454d.html
Here is the big boys explenation: For a short deck 598cid
Bore= 4.60
Stroke=4.50
Rods=6.385
CC's=124.7
C/H=1.120 or 1.245 depending where you look it up at
gasket=.051
Deck cut= .0075
Piston out of bore .007
Dome CC's=40 or 43 depending where you look it up at

So they say I have 13.33:1 with these heads and 598cid. I asked if there was a way to verify if I do still in fact have the same engine they have on paper. They gave me the job # which is the ID#. I did finally find it on the heads. :winker: This makes my head hurt. I also called JE and the tech told me that all that matters for figuring out cid. is bore and stroke. He also told me that I have a 598cid. Im confused....Does any of this make any since. :confused:
 
born2burn said:
Chris-
I confirmed by measuring myself the stroke is for sure a 4.50. I measured 4.52 but my micrometer is nothing special so close enough for my book. According to this link my domes are 43cc. :D http://www.flatlanderracing.com/jepistonchevyb454d.html
Here is the big boys explenation: For a short deck 598cid
Bore= 4.60
Stroke=4.50
Rods=6.385
CC's=124.7
C/H=1.120 or 1.245 depending where you look it up at
gasket=.051
Deck cut= .0075
Piston out of bore .007
Dome CC's=40 or 43 depending where you look it up at

So they say I have 13.33:1 with these heads and 598cid. I asked if there was a way to verify if I do still in fact have the same engine they have on paper. They gave me the job # which is the ID#. I did finally find it on the heads. :winker: This makes my head hurt. I also called JE and the tech told me that all that matters for figuring out cid. is bore and stroke. He also told me that I have a 598cid. Im confused....Does any of this make any since. :confused:
To figure CID they are correct you only need to have bore and stroke. Rod length does not play a part in this. What rod length plays a part in is Compression Height. So lets figure this:

4.5" stroke/2 = 2.25
Rod Length = 6.385
Total Length = 8.635

Deck Height = 9.800" you confirmed

9.800 - 8 .635 = 1.165" Compression Height (CH) This should be the CH if it is what they say it is with the components.

The problem is they gave you the following piston number:
Piston Part Number = 139851 CH = 1.120"

Something does not add up.

Dome volume, per the JE catalog I have from '04 the piston has a 40cc dome. JE in past years has changed many of the forgings.

Balancing a 4.5" stroke crank with short rods and a 630 gm piston is no easy task. As I said the counter weights would have to be machined down to clear the piston. The removal of this weight would insure the use of mallory metal to rebalance the crank.

I would take your time since you are flowing the heads and take this bottom end apart and see what it is and then go forward.

Chris
 
Stamped/engraved on the front of your intake is a #. It should be on the intakes crossover/t-stat port.

Like 2000, or 2001, what have you.

I'll get to the bottom of this in an unconvential way. :laugher: :laugher: :laugher: :laugher:
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
Chris-
Thanks again for all your time/troubles. PM back at ya.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
cfm said:
Stamped/engraved on the front of your intake is a #. It should be on the intakes crossover/t-stat port.

Like 2000, or 2001, what have you.

I'll get to the bottom of this in an unconvential way. :laugher: :laugher: :laugher: :laugher:
The only markings on this thing is in the oil galley back by the distributor hole. HV BB is it. This has been totally smoothed out everywhere. Almost looks home made as you can see where they have taken a grinder to places where they have smoothed and blended welds. :confused1 :angry1: :confused1 The only other marking is a "0" on the crossover. Now what?
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
cfm said:
Now he's done it - Cstraub went to the big boyz. :bigsmile:
Yep.........man Im flattered that my situation (unorthodox-ed contraption and bucket of bolts) is being discussed among such a crowd. :blush: :bigsmile:
 
I wonder how much real race gas is these days???

Back in the 70's when I was racing, we paid what seems like $2 per gallon when bought in 55 gallon drums (including shipping)....
Not cheap stuff.
That stuff was super RED!! It would turn everything red that it ran through...

I also don't remember the octane, but I seem to recall 105. It was also loaded with lead, which is a good thing for motors, at least it used to be...

It would be interesting to learn what race gas is these days, and where you can get it..
Kent
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Mudball said:
I wonder how much real race gas is these days???

Back in the 70's when I was racing, we paid what seems like $2 per gallon when bought in 55 gallon drums (including shipping)....
Not cheap stuff.
That stuff was super RED!! It would turn everything red that it ran through...

I also don't remember the octane, but I seem to recall 105. It was also loaded with lead, which is a good thing for motors, at least it used to be...

It would be interesting to learn what race gas is these days, and where you can get it..
Kent
Just got off the phone with VP Racing Fuel. 110 octane is 6.36 a gallon. He recommends that I could get away with 2:1 ratio. He said since my boat holds 90gal he said to use one barel of 110 and top off with 93octane. That puts me down to 100-103octane or there abouts which is close to the AV-gas 100LL but the race fuel has something like 6 times the lead. Dont know????? Others have said 110octane straight "MINIMUM"..........so lets see 6.36gal x 90 = 572.40 a weekend..........perfect.
 
I never heard of the "Pro Purple" or whatever it was called down in So Cal until I moved up here. I could swear it was 115 or 118 octane and the price wasn't bad. Heck, I think Trick is 114. I know you can buy some Unocal in this area, but I don't remember the octane. I don't know if it was the burn rate of the pro purple or what it was, but like I posted earlier, my engine really liked it. Sorry I can't remember more details about it. :rolleyes:
 
Remember that lead (Tetra-ethyl Lead) is a major lubricant.

Back in the golden olden days, lead in gas helped to lubricate the pistons, valves, and everything else, and was an awesome additive. You know why they didn't want it in fuels any longer...Some of the lead byproducts ended up in the air. Oh no, can't have that, even though I never heard of a definitive problem caused by that. That's not to say that some exist....

Back then, you could run junk valves in junk guides, and it would live for a long time, because of the lead.

The only downside to high lead contents were that the lead would build up on the plugs after a while, requiring a more frequent change. You could see the lead buildup on the plugs after extended running...

In reality, I can't see a downside to high lead in boating fuel! It will make your motor happier, and will lead to longevity, unless the materials that we use today are that much different than 30 years ago...

Just my old 2c...
Kent
 
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