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It is bad replace it now.
Even if you can't afford a new one now don't even think of putting it back togeather with that on there.
That is one of the reasons that I pull both of my drives every fall.
So that I can grease the U joints and the input shaft.
My couplings are 14 years old and look like new.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
US1Fountain said:
All hell, just put some spacers behind the coupler moving it out and use those last good 1/2" splines. ;)
Or I could just stuff some JB weld in it and shove in the shaft :laugher:

I'm not sure how often it was greased before I bought the boat (We've had it 4 seasons). After I bought it, I had a local shop pull the OD and grease it. Only done that twice since buying the boat..... my bad :dead:

Lesson learned. I'll be pulling the OD annually now to grease the splines, with the correct Merc grease.

So, where's the best buy on drive couplers :rolleyes: CP has them for $349.00. Mine has the aluminum insert, OEM I believe. I've been told they can be had with steel inserts for hp applications. Aluminum would be fine I think, when properly maintained. Any thoughts on aluminum vs steel ?
 
Yup,its past done !!!!!!!!

I agree, I bet your alignment was off,,,,,,, replace the rear mount springs and fiber washer while its out to, there cheap enough
 
Ebay has the best prices I've seen on couplers, $260. I just saw an alignment tool too in one of these posts for $40. It was a post asking if the guy could use the drive shaft as a alignment tool. It was either here or OSO.

Also check out the front motor mounts. If they are a rust POS you would be wise to buy new. It is most useful to have the nuts spin free when aligning the engine.

BT :cool:
 
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