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Need help with rot repair...stringers soggy. Please advise

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Discussion starter · #43 ·
NstyLX said:
Is that Speedwake on the laptop???? :laugher: :popc1

Looks like progress to me............... :D
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hahaha yes sir that is some speedwake.....homepage. I'm a forum guy. People on the internet are way cooler/smarter than lots of the local "315er's" as we call them around here. Its a brother wease thing....

Tomorrow.....removing plywood and cleaning up the floor. Gotta go get some plastic and a paint suit and mask from my bro. :p:

stay tuned. i want to rename this thread and maybe have it moved to the microboat section soon.

vvvv some food for thought till next time vvvv
 

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Discussion starter · #48 ·
Question:

What is the distance (C to C) of the standard merc engine mounts?

Also... Would it be wise to mount the engine on an angle bracket off the side or straight over the top of the stringer?

I am drawing up plans for the new grid and I need to figure out how I am going to mount the engine to the stringers and the distance they should be apart.


Someone please add 2 pennies....


one more thing.... Bedding...??? What should I use under the structure between the hull and the wood. Some guys say bondo...some say foam...some say just a layer of gorrilla glue..... I was thinking some dense foam about 1/2" thick. 2 more pennies here please.

Thanks for the support so far guys! It helps my non-motivated azz get motivated. :winker:


ps... Not using plywood for the stringers....2x8 DF instead. ply for the bulkheads.
 
#49 ·
sprint18 said:
Question:

What is the distance (C to C) of the standard merc engine mounts?

Also... Would it be wise to mount the engine on an angle bracket off the side or straight over the top of the stringer?
Click to expand...
Do you have access to the engine that was in there? Just measure across the mounts.

Here's a pic of how my mounts are done. They are bolted through the stringer.
 

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#50 · (Edited)
#51 ·
opie272 said:
JMHO but if you are going to all the trouble to REPLACE the stringers I would use these.....!!

OFFSHORE engine mount plates are much better than the original mounts. Plus you never really have to worry about alignment again.

I would do this to my engine compartment if I had to replace ALL my stringers.

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...48 90&ivar=images/CRUISER/817648.90/34.png&inbr=1607&bnbr=34&bdesc=MOUNT+PLATES
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I agree! I've lost a coupler due to the crappy stock mounts.
 
#52 ·
sprint18 said:
Question:

Someone please add 2 pennies....


one more thing.... Bedding...??? What should I use under the structure between the hull and the wood. Some guys say bondo...some say foam...some say just a layer of gorrilla glue..... I was thinking some dense foam about 1/2" thick. 2 more pennies here please.
Click to expand...
Mix micro fibers to epoxy or resin to make a thick paste, Almost like a peanut butter and squish the stringers down into it. NOOOOO to bondo. Over time the bondo breaks and makes air pockets so you will get weak points under you stringers.
 
#53 ·
sprint18 said:
Question:
one more thing.... Bedding...??? What should I use under the structure between the hull and the wood. Some guys say bondo...some say foam...some say just a layer of gorrilla glue..... I was thinking some dense foam about 1/2" thick. 2 more pennies here please.

ps... Not using plywood for the stringers....2x8 DF instead. ply for the bulkheads.
Click to expand...
DO NOT use foam. Think about it. Foam breaks down and compresses.

I agree with the Micro Fibers.
Good stuff that will "flex" with the hull but not be brittle.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
ok on the micro fibers...

i thought about the offshore mounts. But I was told that it would be too solid for my boat to have all that weight unsuspended. The power unit weights as much as the whole boat.

i'm in the middle on the mounts....I'd like to do that though.

The old engine was a center mount 4 banger...can't use for locating.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
made some progress again yesterday night before work...didn't have time to post before i left. thought I'd share.

had no prob gettin gthe bulkheads out...in several pieces that is. they were ALL rotten badly where they crossed over each other. I only have the old center engine mount left to gut....then on to the transom.

as far as the transom..... few Q's

1st) How the HELL do I seperate the wood from the fiberglass on the back side? I have no room for wedges or chisels on top or on the sides. I was hoping actually that it is so rotted that it "de-lam's" as i cut it out around the rim.

2nd) What do I use to hold it against the fiberglass while I epoxy it on? Should I worry about air bubbles between layers?

3rd) Anyone have any tips for un-foreseen difficulties when they did it?
 

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#59 ·
Cut the transom into squares and chip it out a little at a time. I cut them around 4x4 to 5x5 (inches). Cut the wood just deep enough to get through one layer, then do it one layer at a time. Use a sharp wood chisel to get under the mat that SHOULD be between each layer and it should pop out. It will take you awhile, just take your time.

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This is what I did to pull the new wood to the skin. Worked good, I just filled the bolt holes with dowel after and fixed the holes. One tip is to use t-nuts on one side, so you don't need a helper to tighten the bolts. Worked out pretty good, actually surprised how well it turned out.

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#60 ·
Dowels trimmed and under the inner glass. I used 1/4 bolts and then drilled the holes to 3/8" and filled with 3/8" dowels.

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Initial grinding to start fixing all the damn holes.

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Holes filled, just need to do a little finish grinding, one or two layers of veil mat and then re-gel. I'm going up 3 inches on the x or else I wouldn't have ground out and redone the drive and exhaust cutouts.

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