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TomZ

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just trying to get some thoughts on where to look....

If any of you have followed the Microboats forum, you know that I'm at the end of installing one of RMBuilder's cam combos. This has nothing to really do with the installation, just falls in the middle.

Back in April I got the boat fired up from being put away for the season. It fired up nicely on the hose and sounded pretty good. I decided I was going to retard the timing just a bit (older fuel precaution)... just a couple ticks via the eyeball from where the housing was gouged from the clamp (new MSD RTR distributor). I noticed that the engine's tone went south badly and put it right back. From then on, the throttle was sluggish. I thought that maybe old fuel was to blame and decided to go to the ramp.

At the ramp, got the boat started (took a bit) and had some hesistation/stalling. Took off and had a hard time getting on plane with two adults and my 4-year old. Boat was seriously digging a whole and took forever to plane but did. Attempting to run wide open would get you 4K RPM or so (engine was running to 52-5300 at the end of the summer).

As the trip went on the boat just started to feel less and less powerful. Finally, we got back to the ramp and she just refused to really cooperate (though we were able to get it up on the trailer under power). Got her home, flushed and put away. Figured that the problems might have been related to timing or bad fuel.

After all this, my cam came in along with my single plane Team G intake, etc. I tore everything down to do the cam install, found that my cam button/cover were messed up (but the cam was not walking... got it just in time really). Installed the new cam, replaced the cam drive, and buttoned everything back up. Went to start her up and ended up with a dead miss. Tried a couple of methods to locate the problem and really couldn't. Ended up replacing the plugs with new and also threw on my other wires (I couldn't get a good resistance test on the Mallory wires and I had a set of MSD wires already made). Fired her up on the hose and she came right to life. Throttle response was a little hesitant off idle, but it had always been that way when cold so no biggie. Cleaned everything up, put the flame arrestor back on, changed the fuel/water separator, and got her ready to go.

At the dock, the engine ran like absolute crap. I mean bad! It would not idle and would surge like crazy. Almost like a vacuum leak (there wasn't one). I finally got her to idle some and we left. Performance was less than stellar. Worse than the April trip. I went down from the 23P prop that was on the boat before to a 21P just so we could be easy on the new set up. The boat would barely get on plane. BARELY! And again, same load, two adults one small child. I only ran it for a short amount of time... just enough to get to a little beach so that we could hang out and my son could play. The trip back was pretty much the same.

So, I have three things that I can think of that might be causing this issue:

1. Poor fuel or water in the fuel. That would actually make sense with the whole hard starting/surging thing at the dock. If water was suspended in the fuel during pumping/pressure, then it would have had time to settle at the bottom (right at jet level) and cause all sorts of trouble.

2. Dirty/gummed up carb. I don't know what Ethanol (E10) does sitting in a carb for five months, but I bet it isn't good. I took off the carb last night and really didn't find anything... just some grit in the bottom of the carb. I cleaned everything and I'll reassemble tonight.

3. Bad coil. This is an observation based on just trying to figure out what the heck is going on. The fact that the plugs needed to be replaced though they didn't look it... I was surprised that replacing them actually worked. Just seems odd. Maybe the coil is too weak to fire a season-old spark plug? The old plugs came out, pre-cam change, looking like they're supposes to... tan and clean. I have another coil to try so that isn't a big deal.

The engine is a 385 small block Chevy... Eagle/SRP Competition Series bottom end, very stout and built by Jeff Riddle out of Chesapeake VA, Trick Flow heads, Felpro marine gaskets, etc.

Anyone have any thoughts one way or another?

Thanks,
Tom
 
I'm working a near identical issue with a boat I just bought. I am rebuilding the carb (looked ok inside) and this weekend I will install it and empty the seperator. Then I will run it off an outboard gas can with known fresh fuel. I am hopeful it will smooth right back out, but if not, I'm taking my timing light, vacuum gage and compression tester to diagnose further.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Maybe i'll bring a outboard can with me and see how it goes, too. I hold about 60 gallons of fuel. In April I filled it with about 25 gallons of fresh 93 octane. It would really suck having to throw it all out, but my bet is that it's junk.

When I pulled off the old water separator, I poured the fuel into a clear plastic container. It had an orange look to it and didn't really smell like gasoline. Stunk really. A layer of sludge has also settled to the bottom of the container. I'll get a pic of it tonight.

Good luck with yours.

Tom
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Oh... did the timing thing with mine. I have it set at 14 degrees initial with 35 total in by 3000 RPM.

I'll need to find my vacuum gauge.

TZ
 
Maybe i'll bring a outboard can with me and see how it goes, too. I hold about 60 gallons of fuel. In April I filled it with about 25 gallons of fresh 93 octane. It would really suck having to throw it all out, but my bet is that it's junk.

When I pulled off the old water separator, I poured the fuel into a clear plastic container. It had an orange look to it and didn't really smell like gasoline. Stunk really. A layer of sludge has also settled to the bottom of the container. I'll get a pic of it tonight.

Good luck with yours.

Tom
Your gas is certainly the issue. Yellow/orange, seperation and terpentine smell sum it up. Mine is similar but it did not seperate. I have 110 gallons of this fine nectar. :dead:
 
Be very carfull with that fuel. A few years ago I ran E10 fuel that was 5 mo old with Stabilizer. I took out the tops of the rod berrings in a very short time. I had some of the same symtoms you are having. It idled very rough and hard to keep running.
 
I would try the fresh fuel in another gas can. Also maybe the pick up coil in the distributor is weak, you said things went south after adjusting it. That engine needs good fuel. Ethanol can break down very quickly and that thing is running just like it has poor fuel. I have seen many engines run that way because of poor fuel. Good luck
 
I had a similar problem a few weeks ago except since I always let it warm up on the hose I found it then. It started and ran good then after it warmed and the idle settled it died then became hard to start and wouldn't hardly run. When I drained the separator it was full of water. I bet I drained it 3-4 times before getting the water out. And this is the really big long NAPA one. Then drained the bowls on the carb. The fuel in the carb was milky white. The next day it wouldn't even start.... The check valves in the accel pump had stuck from the crappy fuel. Finally got it straight and got all fresh gas in and its running excellent again.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I reassembled the carb last night and it's back on the boat. Everything is clean and ready to go there.

Fuel... I'm going to see if I have a outboard can out here in our company's storage shop. We have a lot of boat-related stuff for the owners' fishing boats. I'll try running it this evening with some fresh fuel.

The existing fuel will need to be pumped out. I have the Mallory race pump from my S10 that's sitting on my bench. I'm going to attach some very long leads to it (no sparking in the bilge area) and I'll pump it all into different gas cans. From there we'll put them in my tractor, mower, vehicles. They'll be more workable there.

Oil pressure was hanging in there so I think the bottom end is OK. I'll be sure NOT to run it like that anymore though!

Once it's out and new fuel is in... what do I do in the future with this stuff? The tank has to be vented so it's not like I can keep out moisture. I'm sure this topic has been covered in the past, but how do we keep the fuel safe? I can tell you right now, if I had to replace this engine, it would be a long time before I would be boating again. The bottom end alone was in the thousands to build.

TZ
 
Once it's out and new fuel is in... what do I do in the future with this stuff? The tank has to be vented so it's not like I can keep out moisture.
TZ
I have always had good luck running it down really low. I dose the schit out of the remaining fuel, then do my warm up and winterization on the treated fuel.

This way, in the spring you can dump some 92 octane on top of it, and from my experience, all is well.


FULL used to be the standard, and, some people still have good luck with it. I just don't like the idea of having all that fuel in there potentially collecting moisture. Plus, it's difficult (and expensive) to treat a few hundred gallons for storage compared to 15-20 (or less!)
 
Tom Z - let it run to near empty by end of season if you can. If not, no biggie as you are making a 'pump out pump' just like I have using a spare/old electric pump.

I have sleds to drive in the winter that need fuel and of course our cars/trucks do also, so you can use the fuel up pretty quick.

I used to do it in the spring, but when we got the E10 the other year I figured why not in the fall/winter when the fuel is good and thus won't potentially kill the sleds/cars/trucks/lawnmower/etc with probable bad fuel in the spring.

PS: I have around 10ft+ leads for my pump plus about 15-20ft of hose off the end to put the fuel in cans and the vehicles. :D
 
BTW to everyone please read and think about it:

Anyone using high test fuel must really research this. I have written about this in the snowmobile forums where most of us run 91, 92, or 93 + fuel.

Most everyone with cars do not use anything but 87 octane now ! And it's been this way since gas hit $4.00 a gallon.

I watched this at every local gas station including the big ones. Even high end cars that require premium fuel where (and still are) using 87.

I filled 2 x 5 gallon jugs of 93 two winters ago for our sleds. As I started pouring it one of my selds (thank god it was the kid's :laugher: )I noticed a severe lack of fumes. There was no gas smell ! I then stuck my face in the gas can and guess what ? No nose burner nor eye stinger. It was shot ! Poured it into a clear container and noticed the off color.

I warned as many people as possible of this and come to find out 5 or 6 sleds burnt down with that fuel from that station. And I thought they where pumping some ? Nope !

Us high octane gas user are fk*D ! Most of it is old crap because of people not using it anymore.

Check with your local station and find out how much they have been pumping and how much they have been having to put back in the tanks.

This is no joke.

The 87 octane can be better stuff than the 93.

I'm very paranoid about this for many real reasons.
 
That has me very concerned CFM. I have a 580hp 383 with 11.7:1 compression in my street car that has been zero decked and has a nice solid roller that bleeds of a bit of cylinder pressure. I have gotten away with 91 octane fuel for over 10 years by simply retarding the timing to aroud 33 degrees. Granted, it is down on power some, but still runs well considering. I filled it up about 6 weks ago after carefully limping it around on last winters remaining fuel and noticed some slight pinging with the "fresh" fuel. Your observation makes sense. I may need to start mixing some race fuel with 87 if this trend continues. Hate to burn up any pistons, even though she is due for a teardown and possibly rings and bearings.
 
Tom Z - let it run to near empty by end of season if you can. If not, no biggie as you are making a 'pump out pump' just like I have using a spare/old electric pump.

I have sleds to drive in the winter that need fuel and of course our cars/trucks do also, so you can use the fuel up pretty quick.

I used to do it in the spring, but when we got the E10 the other year I figured why not in the fall/winter when the fuel is good and thus won't potentially kill the sleds/cars/trucks/lawnmower/etc with probable bad fuel in the spring.

PS: I have around 10ft+ leads for my pump plus about 15-20ft of hose off the end to put the fuel in cans and the vehicles. :D
x2 on that.
 
I reassembled the carb last night and it's back on the boat. Everything is clean and ready to go there.

Fuel... I'm going to see if I have a outboard can out here in our company's storage shop. We have a lot of boat-related stuff for the owners' fishing boats. I'll try running it this evening with some fresh fuel.

The existing fuel will need to be pumped out. I have the Mallory race pump from my S10 that's sitting on my bench. I'm going to attach some very long leads to it (no sparking in the bilge area) and I'll pump it all into different gas cans. From there we'll put them in my tractor, mower, vehicles. They'll be more workable there.

Oil pressure was hanging in there so I think the bottom end is OK. I'll be sure NOT to run it like that anymore though!

Once it's out and new fuel is in... what do I do in the future with this stuff? The tank has to be vented so it's not like I can keep out moisture. I'm sure this topic has been covered in the past, but how do we keep the fuel safe? I can tell you right now, if I had to replace this engine, it would be a long time before I would be boating again. The bottom end alone was in the thousands to build.

TZ
Good question. Don't put it strait in the mowers unless you need new ones. If it is that bad find a way to recycle it.
 
Tom, Sorry to hear your having problems. I know how ready you were to fly with the new combo.

Start simple in fixing this problem. Fuel, air and spark. Pump out all old fuel. I run a Blue electric pump and pull a line and pump into a tank to store before winter. Replace fuel filter and sounds like you allready did the carb. If new 93 fuel does not fix this, I would start troubleshooting the ignition system. I see you are running an MSD RTR dist. If I am correct it replaces the merc distributor and ignition trigger. Does it still use the Merc TBIV ignition amplifier that provides advance?
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Ryan,

I filled it with 5 gallons of known good fuel, amd then went to start it. After getting the carb adjusted, she seems to be running good.

Just hit the gas station and we're headed to the ramp.

I love how this thing idles. Definitely has the sound of authority, but seems like it'll idle well.

Tom
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