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Need help with rot repair...stringers soggy. Please advise

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#261 · (Edited)
sprint18 said:
even use a 3" hole saw over the bulkheads and "stringers" (plywood if its not a 4.3) and get a good look at them. use the hole biscuit to put right back in with thickened epoxy if all looks well.

drill into the transom and see what you get. dont go all the way through. use tape to mark the depth on the drillbit. 1 1/2" of wood on the transom 3/4 on the outside where its only one sheet of plywood. try under the engine first and work your way out to the outsides of the hull. epecially where the rear vents are.
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really like the boat so doubt ill sell, motor is perfect and ive read a couple threads where materials cost for transom replacement wasnt too much

will drill holes and see what i find, all of it was redone 3 years ago (confirmed) so i wonder what they mustve been done wrong with the transom replacement, i just bought the boat a couple months ago

hopefully when i do bellows replacement it reveals an easier problem to fix, though not going to lie i would like to have the experience of replacing a transom

btw my boat with the 5.7 with non vortec heads hits 60 easy

six weeks are up, pics of boat in water? :winker:
 
Discussion starter · #264 ·
yeah meeee toooo brother. still only excuses from this guy. note to respectable ppl reading this.... dont trade for work off craigslist. douches only on CL. no good experiences yet to speak of from there. traded 2 fair shape warrior 4 wheelers for this guy to re-cover my panels. and that about 20sq ft at best, plus re- cover my bimini with black sunbrella. wtf man, he wins out of this deals im still getting the run around. arrrrrggg matey!
 
Discussion starter · #266 ·
lol.... still have to assemble it. hulll is done, transom assy is on, motor plates are ready to go in. engine is ready, got everything but steering lines. the guy i gave my interior to almost a year ago off CL is almost done after i had to go make a visit to him and say not nice things...which sucks cause im a nice guy. i dont like being a prick. but at least now he has some fire under his azz. so as soon as I get my rear panel i can put the engine in and start building my exhaust. little worried about my cam selection with the under water exhuast. im going to order y-pipe diverters so i can have captains call and maybe that will help having the baffle in the stock exhaust tube down at the drive, but prob not. i may have to engineer some kind of one way valve to allow the engine to breathe backwards while cranking so it doesnt eat water. we will see i guess. and as far as my intake i have to finish welding in the injector bungs for my port injection (since nobody makes port injected manifolds for a 4.3 i have to make my own as you see above) then I can wire up my ECU (megasquirt) and get tuning.
the outisde of the hull needs some fresh interlux white before I wrap in in vinyl graphix.... keystone light blue and carbon fiber ;)

so basically i have a month of work to finish. and im starting the clock in 2 weeks. my hands are frozen while i type this so i have some time yet. still ice on lake ontario at the shore this past weekend.

Dont worry i'll get back to posting fun stuff asap. just need my interior back at this point
 
Discussion starter · #268 ·
yeah I hear that. but i'm on a mission for this year. i gotta have a boat of my own. got a few others i can hop on in the meantime but its just not the same. i have too much invested to draw it out another year. i'm basically at 90% right now on the build. After all it only took a day to take apart LOL
 
#269 ·
Man are you a persistent rascal :D You have kept at it for what close to 4 years? I am glad to hear you are getting down to the wire now. Good luck in getting the final bit completed so you can get her out and run some this summer. My hats off to ya brother !!!:bow::bow:
 
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Discussion starter · #270 ·
When i say I'm going to do something...DAMMIT.... I DO! :gunner::gunner::gunner:

lol. Thanks guys.... alot of the time I get back at it just to post something here due to guilt haha Need motivation anywhere i can get it.


oh and i love my boat. it's not just any boat... it's mine:pirate:
 
#272 · (Edited)
brivander said:
So true!!!

If you are worried about the cam just make sure you idle it high until you get the exhaust figured out...
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With an Alpha drive? Really? With a Bravo drive? Nope. With a Borg-Warner transmission? No. With a Daytona CrashBox transmission? Yes. But ya, starting his Alpha in gear would work... Just get everyone in the boat first, before you start it.
 
#273 ·
Yes really, but you make a good point.

Don't SET the idle any higher or if you do find a spot slightly higher that shifting is still easy and not clunky. What I meant in my previous post was to manually idle it higher using the controls while sitting stationary out of gear and idle higher AFTER you put it in gear, guess I wasn't very clear, that would have been some bumpy shifting :)

I set my idle to about 50rpm higher on my 502, any higher than that shifting is tough, but I NEVER let it run that low when I am in gear or out of gear for any extended time. I'm just below the "danger" zone for reversion with my cam. If he is worried about it, that's what I would do.
 
Discussion starter · #274 ·
700 rpm. and i already got a brandy new shift interrupt mechanism that i will make sure works very well. other than that i should be ok cause unless i have 900lbs in the back the exhaust will be only partially underwater. im just a worry wart. worse case i build a aluminum 383 ;) then i can shed another 100lbs in a butt
 
#275 ·
Discussion starter · #277 ·
Well, update time.

Got the cutout for my old throttle patched with the panel i made last year. Ran the last layer of thickened epoxy over the patches i did over the old vents i curved the wood for, so those are level and ready for final sanding. I cleaned up all the crud left over from winter and filled in all the spots that needed some goop in the engine bilge.

Other good news. I finally purchased the last "lot" of parts and paint to finish up the hull. Perfection, underwater epoxy for the bottom...all white, 2 step telescoping ladder, flush mount lo-pro nav light, dock ropes, and bilge pump. 850 bucks later im feeling light headed again. So there ya have it guys. grand total for repairs and upgrades in the 12k region including the engine and interior. Somewhere in the 500hr area for labor for hull and another 200hrs in rigging and body work. No expense spared on parts, besides doing alot of it myself. I'm still looking for a Steering ram other than the 12" travel ram I have now.

Just a bunch of sanding, painting, and rigging left to do. Pics coming soon.

Thanks for watching :)
 
Discussion starter · #279 ·
Hull sanded, rub rails removed (found all my screws loose under the rail that attach the top and bottom hulls together, and most of the seal is broken between the pieces) Got another section of the bottom paint off, only center pad and 1st chine left to strip. All topside and transom holes, scratches, blems all filled and sanded smooth. One more wash down with soapy water and a go over with acetone to clean all the finger prints and grime off and i can finally get to painting. Been a long couple days up til 3-4am sanding and prepping. I hate bodywork.... Covered in white gelcoat again. thought my days of sanding fiberglass were gunna be over.

Good news:
Got everything but my bimini top back from the CL guy i traded quads to for the work a year ago. He actually did a great job. Still have to cover my side pocket rails with carpet then everything can start going in.

more good news:
Finally finished welding the intake fuel injector bungs.... the polished intake made for some welding hazards. had to dig it all out with the dremel and have a second go at it. Worked out pretty good. just have to chop out the rest of the bung that protrudes into the port and make some fuel rail hold downs, get some fittings and get plumbing.



Going hard this past week and a half. If I keep this pace i'll be putting the finishing touches on in less than a month. Still need to deal with my risers and exhaust. Thinking about getting some diverter valves and keeping the y-pipe intact through the drive so i can make it quiet for night time rides.

thats all for now. I'll take some pics of everything before the end of the week for your eye candy.

thanks for following as always guys. I wouldn't have made it this far without everyones help. Speedwake fo-eva! lol
 
Discussion starter · #280 ·
welp.... After using a half Gal of this perfection i have covered the hull twice, sanded twice. I just got done laying the last of it on all the spots that i had patched up holes bangs or any other spot with bare resin or fiberglass showing. I'm guessing i used the wrong foam roller cause it looks to have little foam particles all over under the surface. From further research "they" recommend using a high density closed cell foam roller to avoid this. After learning my lesson now I am going to sand with 400 to take off all the runs, sags, and imperfections (no pun intended). Clean it and do final prep at a friends where I have been offered a paint booth. coats 3 and 4 will be sprayed with HVLP gun and 1.4 tip. Light coats each. This stuff can be overcoated without sanding between coats. so if I get it real level and nice before we spray it then i will get the results I want...... Glass finish. This stuff gets so glossy that not even a drop of more paint would stick to it on the angles....just rolled off like a drop of water on a hot pan. strange stuff.

More pics coming soon. Will have pics of interior as well before installing it. :cool:

Still haven't purchased seats yet but I have found some that will work well and fit in my small cockpits without hindering movement.

Stay tuned.... and as always Thank you for following my progress. Comments always welcome. :D:D:D
 

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