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454 drain plugs

17K views 29 replies 13 participants last post by  5325user 
#1 ·
I have a Baja Force 235. It has a stock 454 but the engine compartment is very tight. I've had someone winterize it for me since we've had it. Now he's on thet road 6 days a week, and it looks like I have to do it myself this year.

I need hints on how to find the drain plugs. How many are there, and approximate location on the block. Any other tidbits appreciated.
Thanks!!
 
#2 ·
There are 3 total, but verify this agaist your manual. 2 block drains, one engine oil/power steering cooler drain. (If you have fresh water cooling, there is no need to drain the block unless you're changing the antifreeze. However, the heat exchanger has a raw water drain plug- you must pull this.)
The two 2 engine block drains are towards the bottom and aft on each side of the block, not far above the oil pan. They might be a pain to see if they are just the plugs, but they are there. You can actually replace these with Mercruiser bronze petcocks, or just take the cheap way out and use Help! auto parts radiator drain cocks then you won't have to remove plugs anymore. (Have some thin but stiff wire on hand when you remove the plugs to dislodge any rust, sand, or debris so the block drains completely.) I want to say they're halfway between the last 2 cylinders? The port side is close to the power steering/oil cooler. Speaking of which, that's where the 3rd plug is located- at the 6 o'clock position of the cooler looking at it from aft. Be sure to pull that. Then for the manifolds, pull the hoses off the bottom and the manifolds and risers will drain. You should drain all the water out of these plugs, then reinstall and run antifreeze through the motor for maximum freeze/rust protection.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Sorry I couldn't get back sooner.

Thanks for the info Tommygun.

bajacleve ...I have an 89 also. It's been an awesome boat all the way around. I've looked at bigger boats but the cockpit area in the 28's & even 30's are smaller than our force. :eek:
 
#6 ·
I agree. I'll do antifreeze for sure. If I could be sure the antifreeze would get to every corner I wouldn't have to do the plugs .....but there is no way I know of to be sure other than removing the plugs.

I also fog the engine. But I think everyone does that to.
 
#7 ·
I put a plastic tub under the outdrive, run some 4" plastic hose from the exhaust into it, dumb a case of antifrees into the tub, and run a submersible sump pump with a garden hose fitting in the tub to the muffs. That way all of the antifreeze is reclaimed, and I don't have to perfectly time the fogging portion or worry about if it circulated enough. You can save anything leftover for the next year. BUT, I still drain all the raw water from the block and lines prior to running the antifreeze through.
 
#12 ·
eyeinstine said:
What do you guy sthink of following this procedure??

http://www.mercstuff.com/winterizing.htm

i dont think the almost full fuel tnak applies anymore with the E10.. but everything else sounds pretty simple and super safe way to winterize.. Everything gets drained, and the antifreeze is added for extra insurance..


Ron
I agree. I've always been scared of the run through of antifreeze. I know lots of people do it with no problem, but if you make a mistake, and leave water in block, you are screwed.

after the fog/stabil, to winterize I

1. drain block with 2 plugs
2. drain exhaust manifolds by pulling 2 hoses
3. drain intake line at impeller and below oil cooler

Pull the 4 hoses off the thermostat housing.

Fill block with antifreeze through big hose to recirc pump. takes ~ 3 gallons
fill both hoses to exhaust manifolds takes about 1 gallon
fill hose to oil cooler and fill hose from PS cooler to impeller housing 1/2 gallon
pull intake line off impeller housing and pour antifreeze through it till it comes out pickup in drive, about 1/2 gallon

Total about 5 gallons
Total time maybe 20-30 minutes
sleep good all winter not worrying that I have any water in my motor

I use -100 that I cut to -70. That way when it mixes with the little bit of water that is always left when you drain, I still have at least -50 protection.
 
#13 ·
So you guys don't think it's a good idea to run antifreeze through? If all the water has been drained, it should be better than just pouring it in one would think. Yet this mercstuff sight says not to use quick winterizing kits, I think people aren't draining the water out when they use these and the thermostat isn't opening. I remember seeing another website that warned against filling the block with antifreeze, or freeze damage could result from residual water. What I normally do is drain a sample from each block drain, then put the samples in my freezer for a few days just to be sure whats in there is good.
 
#14 ·
Tommygun said:
I remember seeing another website that warned against filling the block with antifreeze, or freeze damage could result from residual water
Thats why I use -100 and not -50. It takes very LITTLE water to make -50 useless.

If you put it in the frezzer, it will turn to slush, which is fine. I "think" -50 is rated at burst strength of -50 and freeze strength of 0. So it won't expand till -50 Its the expanding that makes it break. If it froze and didn't expand, it would hurt things.
 
#15 ·
Tommygun said:
I think people aren't draining the water out when they use these and the thermostat isn't opening.
The thermostat staying open is the key if you are running it through. Sometimes its hard to get the boat up to operating temps on the hose and make it stay there. So if the 'stat closes, you'll have antifreeze through the exhaust and think you are done when you really aren't.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I used the quick winterizing kits 2 years ago.
That is why I have 2 new engines :rolleyes:

It works...sort-of...the draining the block after-wards is critical. It insures the block water is drained in case is not actually anti-freeze. Using the wire to make sure the water fully drains is critical. I did not do this and had problems.

Putting the sample water from block in freezer is not a bad idea. :)

I will be doing the quick winterizing trick for the oil cooler and seawater pump.
But will complete the job the "Old fashioned way"
and drain the block, pour in antifreeze, and recheck.

Seawater pumps should not be a problem though....aren't we supposed to replace those little rubber impellers every year anyway? Do it in the fall. :rolleyes:

Don't forget the exhaust manifolds....especially the tubular type. Raw water/antifreeze kept inside the tubing can't be good for them.

As far as the thermostat closing in the middle of the job?
Using the bucket and circulating the same water seems like it would remedy this problem.
It is when you are warming it up on the hose and then switch to the antifreeze that is sitting on the rear deck that I could see a problem. Water from the hose is partially warmed by the ground/house it is being pumped from. The antifreeze that is sitting on the rear area of the boat is cooler.
If you wait till the last minute, and are doing this and have a winter coat on like I have in the past, you are in trouble :laugher:
 
#17 ·
opie272 said:


As far as the thermostat closing in the middle of the job?
Using the bucket and circulating the same water seems like it would remedy this problem.
It is when you are warming it up on the hose and then switch to the antifreeze that is sitting on the rear deck that I could see a problem. Water from the hose is partially warmed by the ground/house it is being pumped from. The antifreeze that is sitting on the rear area of the boat is cooler.
Thats how i have done all my boats for 25+ years...watch the temp guage rise. at about 250 i kill it with fogging
 
#18 ·
Just got in from my second attempt winterizing. this time just to make sure that T-stat opened I used warm water from the laundry room sink. In about a min the temperature was up thats when I poured the 4 gallons into the bucket.had to time it just right to when to start fogging and to the last drain from the bucket and killing the engine . checked all my hoses when i was done and it did have that green look like my truck.
just to make sure all goes well with winter I'll put an electric heater in this year. :confused1
and i guess I'll have to leave one battery in the boat seeing I need 12V to shut my hatch :angry1:
 
#19 ·
hmmm everyone has there idea, I'm curious if I'm not doing enough, i havent had a problem, drained the block, both manifolds, at the sea pump and at the oil cooler let it all drain drink a cold one, put it all together my boat has a sea weed strainer, take the top off of it pour straight 100% anti in there until it comes out for a cpl minutes and done, here a question I got thou I didnt fog last year and didnt this year should I be? freind had carb problem and was told it was from fogging??????????? :confused1 :confused1 is there really a right way :confused1 :confused1
 
#20 ·
89donzi ,I think if It's going to mess up a carb which i don't think it should. Try removing the spark plugs and spray the fogging oil in through each hole then rotate the engine by hand so the wall of the cylinders are coated.
 
#21 ·
But a run through of antifreeze should be fine provided you're recirculating the same antifreeze after all the water is drained, right? I ask because I bought the -60 stuff from West Marine last week, now you guys are saying -100, which I used last year but they said was overkill. I think the lowest it got here was -10 or so. It's almost like there's too much information on this subject.
 
#23 ·
Tommygun said:
But a run through of antifreeze should be fine provided you're recirculating the same antifreeze after all the water is drained, right? I ask because I bought the -60 stuff from West Marine last week, now you guys are saying -100, which I used last year but they said was overkill. I think the lowest it got here was -10 or so. It's almost like there's too much information on this subject.
The benefit of -100 is that if it mixes 50/50 with water in the block, that you are still protected to -50. The -50 and -60 stuff is not supposed to be mixed with water, and I can't tell you that if -60 was mixed 50/50, that its good to -30. Just make sure that you drain the block well, and you will be more than okay with -60. The -100 is for those of us who as we get older get more paranoid, and for those that have never done it before, and may not drain everything that they should.
 
#25 ·
Tommygun said:
I was thinking about using compressed air to blow residual water out of the block. Anyone done ever done it?
I did it years ago on a motor and didn't fill it with antifreeze. Found the core plugs on the floor in the spring. and it did blow a lot of water out. I was surprised how much was left after draining. Block was okay, but I've used antifreeze ever since.
 
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