Those are real close to the specs. on my Comp. Cam. I have been quite pleased with the results. Good idle, good torque to HP spread, and no reversion problems. --- JP

 

my brother hand a comp cam in a 408 small block ford ate the gear on the distributer. had a buddy with a 306 small block ford ate the distributer. both had the bronze gear. never could figure out why. we then put ultradyne cam s in 0 problems my .02

 

cp is great to deal with and no trouble with comp cams

 

my brother hand a comp cam in a 408 small block ford ate the gear on the distributer. had a buddy with a 306 small block ford ate the distributer. both had the bronze gear. never could figure out why. we then put ultradyne cam s in 0 problems my .02

I guess I'm missing something here!? Are we talking about Fords?? Are we talking MARINE engines here?? I think that I'll stick to the Comp. that I've run successfully for the last two years. --- JP

 

I have comp cams in my marine engines and they have been fine.
Got mine from Jegs from the advice of Dennis Moore's marine book.
109 centerline I think, Real ROCKIN idle, (dry exhaust), never ate gears, bearings, lifters nothing.
Had a bitch of a time getting them started initially but finally got it and they have been fine since day one.
(standard Hyd Lifters no roller assembly)
Never a complaint (except for engine builder that never thought a thing about coil bind and put about 4-5 shims under each spring and it bent all the pushrods)
Cams have been fine even through that ordeal.
J

 

good to hear!! i am considering the CP package, Ill keepyou posted, any other results are still welcome....
please!!

kevin

 

Running the cc 11-239-3, 226/234 @.050, .544/.564 lift, 111 lobe angle, for two years. Runs strong in twin engine application. Had slight reversion with stock exhaust, none with headers. This cam was $99. Why not put your own kit together?

BT

 

anyone have good or bad experiences, Cpperformance has a comp cam kit with cam,lifters,springs,seals and retainers........

any cam and lifter input

the cam is a 224/224 .566/.566 and 112*
their # 295-111008k
kevin

What engine and exhaust system do you have?

 

cmf,
its the 502, with silent choice. i had the "cam suggestions" thread and was still looking, someone pointed me in this direction so i wanted the input from all!!

still thinking of a way to get better exhaust!! seems im limited on my choices if i want silent choice, and limited on my cam selection.

thanks
kevin

 

BT
what are you running for exhaust and have you ever estimated what hp youre making? what about other components, intake etc

 

The main issue with silent choice is that this makes the water have to be introduced before the tailpipe. The bigger the cam the more the water needs to be introduced farther down the tailpipe.

Revolution Manifolds may be good to use in this cirumstance?

Lightning headers makes a 'reduced' water header system for the silent choice. I don't know if this will help much + when the exhaust is run straight out the tailpipes I'm sure the exhaust will be louder with the less amount of 'noise absorbing' water running thru them.

BTW: Stock GM cast iron heads have a pretty bad exhaust port and thus need a good amount more camshaft exhaust duration to get things working correctly. Although it will work of course, I think you'd be better off with a different cam.

 

I don't really feel that reversion should be a problem with a 112* LSA. --- JP

 

It definately could be.

Most articles / companies talk about LSA and that's about it.

LSA is the amount of time (degrees) between the highest lift point of the intake vs exhaust valves. Big factor in how much overlap there is (amt of time intake + exh valves are open at same time) but not the only part of the equation. A slow opening/closing ramp extends the amt of time both are open at the same time but does not change the LSA, since again, LSA is just determined from the max lifts.

LSA is important because just one degree can add/subtract many degrees of overlap.

Anyway, there is a lot more to valve timing events than duration at .050 and LSA. This is where the hard part comes in and why the info is left out.

 

Valve Events, thats what matters. All this other stuff is just by product.

Chris

 

The whole system from exhuast runner length, compression, rod length, valve grind and timing, intake manifold design, ect. make up if reversion will occur. The best thing you can do Boatn70 is poll people about their combos and if reversion was an issue. I'll put up my engine specs later when I have more time... maybe I can get some of these boys to help me pick new sticks for my ride...

BT

 

maybe I can get some of these boys to help me pick new sticks for my ride...

BT [/B]

AAAHHHHH, Grasshopper.....we cam you to the power band!!! :chinese:

Chris

 

The basic rule or thumb that I learned long ago (maybe right - maybe wrong) was that the lower the LSA, the longer the ins and outs were open at the same time, and the greater the tendency for reversion, even though more HP can be made at high RPM with a smaller LSA. What you really need to do is start listening to "cstraub" or "rmbuilder" cause those guys breath this stuff and have forgotten more than most of us will ever know. --- JP

 

Here's a pic of an intake and exhaust lobe.
You can see how moving the distance between the lobe centerlines can effect overlap.
You can also see how making the ramps faster (steeper) or slower (more gradual) can effect this too.

As Cstraub mentioned it's when and where these opening/closing events happen that means everything.

Take a look.

 

Alright Boatn70, here is what I have been running. When I selected these cams I was running center rise merc exhaust and that affected my cam decision. When I first broke the cams in I ran them on my shop floor. I did remove the risers right after breakin and noted some reversion with this cam and that exhaust. I compensated with a higher idle then switched exhaust the next winter. The reversion didn't seem to cause a problem during that year. Now I have new exhaust. Another factor with the cam was I originally was running stock 8:1 compression and was trying to create an increase in cylinder pressure to compensate. Below is how one of my engines shakes out now. The other still runs the 8:1 but that will be corrected this winter. I am pulling both engines and may put new cams in both engines if I can get a better result. These cams work well, but I would like more.....

KE 31" full runner headers, ~6" collectors
9.3:1 KB hypereutectic pistons
Stock merc forged rods w/ 7/16 bolts
Scat nodular steel cast cranks
.020 deck height
Bore notches blocks
Performer rpm edelbrock 6055 rect port heads 2.19/1.88
Performer dual plane intakes
800cfm dp holleys
1" aluminum spacers
Balanced and blue printed.
cc grind cbx4 270h=11
226/234 @.050 and 544/564 lift
111 Lobe seperation, installed at 107 ICL
cc 924 valve springs


Never dynoed. DD200 said around 430hp and I don't remember the torque, lost the dd 2000 program with a hard drive failure. Max hp at 5000rpm and max torque was around 3300rpm. If you look in summit this cam is usually called the 4x4 cam. Any suggestions for a better cam for me is welcomed. If I am trending too hard on your thread Boatn, say the word and I can start another on my case. Hope this helps.

BT

 

You said Performer intakes - the regular ones or RPMs or RPM Air Gap's?

 

They are the rpm version cfm, not the airgaps.

BT

 

BT,
I can tell you right now that you need more lift. I'll look at edelbrocks numbers and figure tommorrow.

Chris

 

Please do cstraub. I forgot to mention these are .070 over 454cid, flat tappet. No work done on heads, bone stock.

BT

 

I'll tell you up front, you may have to change rocker arm ratio. . .go to a split set or 1.8's all away around.

Chris

 

I'll tell you up front, you may have to change rocker arm ratio. . .go to a split set or 1.8's all away around.

Chris

Not really interested in that cstraub. Just spent 5-600 bucks on the rockers I have, 1.7, and am happy with them. Cam options is what I am primarily concerned with for various reasons. Do you think the exhaust need more crutching?

BT