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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have not heard any one using gapless rings. I am just curious if any one does I built my motor with them. I know the blower and nitrous people can’t use them but the natural aspirated how about you?

Gaps open as standard piston rings wear, allowing more combustion gases to escape (blow-by). Gapless rings solve this problem with two-part interlocking rings to close gaps and to improve piston-cylinder seals. As gapless rings wear, gaps stay sealed.

Features

Ideal for naturally aspirated street and mild race (no forced induction or nitrous)
Top Ring: Cast iron
Second Ring: Gapless
Oil Ring: Standard tension
For 10.5:1 or lower compression ratio
Increased horsepower and wider torque curve
More engine vacuum
Better oil control
Complete ring sets
 

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Horsepower Junkie
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I used to run Total Seal's in my turbo race car. They were great rings for the time that the motor stayed together :rolleyes: . Up until I broke the block. I actually managed to pull the head stud out of the block! Anyway, great rings, no blowby, great compression #'s ect.
 

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Horsepower Junkie
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I would be a little concerned with heat in the cyl in a boat with the high loads on the engine. That gap is there to take some of the heat out.
 

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I Read an article about ring gap. Not that big a deal as you might think. Had a NA motor on a dyno with standard ring gap then open the gap up to .080. Didn't make any difference in power. I'm sure there are some engine builders here that would dispute this.
With a marine motor too little gap is definitely is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have run them in small block for a long time. Heck my last Chevy SM 434 with 16.1 compressions ran a whole seasoned with no leak down and my block was hard block meaning no water in the block just the heads. To me it is a lot hotter on the track than in the water. You have the cool fresh water coming in keeping it cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
cfm said:
If you where to run a gapless ring - why the 2nd ?
Good question I run the gapless on the second groove to lower the wear on the cylinder. You gap the rings as normal it’s just you have another ring you add like on the oil ring to close the gap. It isn’t really 0 gap like you think but it does lower the bleed down making a better seal .This is why you really should not use it on blower or nitrous because you do need some bleed down so you don’t blow the rings out. I started running gapless when I was using alcohol not me my motor :laugher: it would keep the alcohol out of the oil.
 

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I use file fit rings in my engine. Kind of a PIA fitting them but I think by using them you get a better engine than just throwing a set of rings on and going with it
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
N'Mocean motorsport said:
I use file fit rings in my engine. Kind of a PIA fitting them but I think by using them you get a better engine than just throwing a set of rings on and going with it
I agree every cylinder is not exactly the same
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
N'Mocean motorsport said:
I use file fit rings in my engine. Kind of a PIA fitting them but I think by using them you get a better engine than just throwing a set of rings on and going with it
N'Mocean
Got a pic of your spyder
 

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noise pollution said:
I Read an article about ring gap. Not that big a deal as you might think. Had a NA motor on a dyno with standard ring gap then open the gap up to .080. Didn't make any difference in power. I'm sure there are some engine builders here that would dispute this.
With a marine motor too little gap is definitely is bad.
Hastings ring company has done the same testing with ring gaps up to .160, with no measurable loss of power.

For years the common practice was to have more gap on the top ring than on the second, because the top ring is exposed to more heat. As of the last few years, the new school of thought is that it is advantageous to have more gap on the second ring than on the top. The reasoning is that pressure between the two rings works to un-seat the top ring. If this theory is correct, how is a gapless second ring helpful?

I've built many engines with correctly gapped Sealed Power plasma moly ductile iron rings, and seen nearly zero cylinder leakage after break in and dyno... that's good enough for me.

As far as the ring gaps staying closed as wear occurs... I've taken apart many engines with Total Seal rings in which the gaps on the two parts of the second rings have aligned themselves. Not sure what goes on there, but I've talked with other builders that have experienced the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
cubicinches said:
Hastings ring company has done the same testing with ring gaps up to .160, with no measurable loss of power.

For years the common practice was to have more gap on the top ring than on the second, because the top ring is exposed to more heat. As of the last few years, the new school of thought is that it is advantageous to have more gap on the second ring than on the top. The reasoning is that pressure between the two rings works to un-seat the top ring. If this theory is correct, how is a gapless second ring helpful?

I've built many engines with correctly gapped Sealed Power plasma moly ductile iron rings, and seen nearly zero cylinder leakage after break in and dyno... that's good enough for me.

As far as the ring gaps staying closed as wear occurs... I've taken apart many engines with Total Seal rings in which the gaps on the two parts of the second rings have aligned themselves. Not sure what goes on there, but I've talked with other builders that have experienced the same.
I haven’t found that much change in the HP either. But the oil lasting much longer staying clean it seems to keep the contamination out. I never had had the ring self align???
 

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64LS1Nova said:
I would be a little concerned with heat in the cyl in a boat with the high loads on the engine. That gap is there to take some of the heat out.

Exactly what I was thinking.
 
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