Powerboat Forums at SpeedWake banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,291 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been reviewing a lot of post about how to get rid of the oxidation and I'm going with 3M because I already have there buffing compound.

My question is when I wet sand with 1000 or 2000 grit what kind of results am I looking for before I move on. Cause I worked on a small area last night for about an hour and all though I did see some difference there still is a chaulky look to it. Is the wet sandind suppose to remove all the oxidation before I move on.

Also why is it harder if you have vynal graphics.
I've worked on this area yesterday, but its hard to see that its still chaulky.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,020 Posts
Its kinda hard to explain cause you almost have to get a "feel" for it when sanding....depending on how bad the oxidation is you may want to hit it with a more agressive sandpaper......i started my stinger with 600wet cause of the oxidation......Its mostly trial and error...but error on the side of caution...so sand a little then wipe it dry...take a look and see if you have a uniform sanding everywhere.....buff it out quickly to see if you are unsure and keep working at it.
As for the vinyl stickler question...not sure what you asking? Most times the gel under the sticker is nise and clean because theres no sunlight getting to it to break it down with the UV rays.....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
your basically trying to get rid of all the white, it can be dull, but don't move up in paper's until you got all the white out. just keep spraying water and find the white areas. from the looks of it I don't think your going deep enough. you may need to drop down to an 800. and change papers often.
its a long process I'd guess 25-30 hours of sanding for a boat of your size, thats what it took me to do the red on my 22 Pachanga;).....aren't red boats fun:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,020 Posts
Oh! and use some sort of sanding block or straight edge....you wont get it done right if your just doing it by hand....your fingers will make deeper lines then the other parts of your hand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,297 Posts
What causes so much oxidation? My boat is yellow and there isnt once ounce of Oxidation anywhere on the boat. Its almost 19 years old. Is it from too much sunlight? I would think his boat wouldnt have any yet since its alot newer.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
good question! hopefully someone will chime in. but my poor understanding it its caused by poor protection from the UV or high exposure that causes it. (sunny climates, no wax, etc.) almost all gel oxidizes to some point even white will slowly start yellow (are you sure your boat wasn't originally white :laugher: j/k) Red's just seem to show it the most.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
Did you try and use something like Wizard's turbo cut or Collinite's Fiberglass restorer/cleaner before moving to sanding? Did none of the liquid methods work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,297 Posts
Everytime I am done boating It gets covered to the bottom of the hull. Boat is outside but the sun never hits it. It gets waxed Monthly. I have the cockpit cover, full cover then a rainguard cover. My family thinks I'm crazy using 3. But it stays bone dry and uv free
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
I did alot of wet sanding this year i used a water bug one time but went to buy one it was $350. Went to harbour freight and got a air sander samething with out the water connection. It was only $25. It worked great just held the hose above it on low to get the water on the boat. It took me to weekends to wet sand my 30ft boat. If you have a compressor on can use one try it. Uses the same paper just have to cut to fit
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
372 Posts
well guy's this is what happens , as the jel get's older & with time the styrene that is used in the jel , will work it 's way to the surface , which will cause the oxditation of the jel on the outside . I also would like to say that the water bug will pay for itself in a heart beat i use this handy little tool for paint work and this type of applacation . :winker:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,291 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the help it looks like I got a lot of work cut out for me. Should I try not to wet sand the vynil graphics or can I just go over it all.

I went to a marina and I guy suggested I try 3M clean and wax. Didn't to much of anything.

Also I was going to do the wet sanding then 3m rubbing compound and the finesse it and then a wax, but I couldn't find finesse it instead a guy told my I could use perfect it in its place is this ok.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
No don't sand over the graphics, you'll rub the color right out of them or start to nick and chip them! you can buff over them but not sand. I'd suggest either using packaging or masking tape over them and just taking a razor blade or hobby knife and cutting the excess around them and just try to sand around them the best you can. as far as polishing agents, I'm not up to date, I still use race glaze :confused1 I'm on the final stages of my boat, I'll post pics in here with before and after for you. :winker:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,291 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I've tried all kinds of stuff. The 3M clean and wax and nothing. Looks good while its wet and then when the sun comes out goodbye shine. Also tried a brand call Nautical Ease. Same thing. I've tried test spots of NE and then clean and wax vs just NE. So far some good 1000 grit wetsanding is taking most of the dullnes out, but what a pain. I'm almost afraid that I might go to deep. Not for sure what its suppose to look like after wet sanding.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
s022mag said:
I've tried all kinds of stuff. The 3M clean and wax and nothing. Looks good while its wet and then when the sun comes out goodbye shine. Also tried a brand call Nautical Ease. Same thing. I've tried test spots of NE and then clean and wax vs just NE. So far some good 1000 grit wetsanding is taking most of the dullnes out, but what a pain. I'm almost afraid that I might go to deep. Not for sure what its suppose to look like after wet sanding.
best way to tell if you've gone far enough is just spray it wet, and the color should be even, give it a good look and if you see areas with white spots you need to sand more. I was once told that the gel is about the thickness of a dime, so there's plenty of room to sand.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
419 Posts
okay here are a few pics to help out. the first one is how it started

then I wet sanded with 1000 grit on one side for about 4 hours, as you can see I didn't go deep enough there is still some white almost checker pattern in the gel after I wiped all the dust off.

from there I decided to wet sand with an 800 and just kept working it to make sure all the white spots were gone, even with the gel wet you could still see them so I just kept sanding till they were gone. after it dries it the color should be even just dull and you'll see the scratch marks from the paper.

after the color was even I moved up to 1000. you'll know you've hit a spot long enough when you feel the paper gliding a little easier on the gel it will feel smooth almost slick. then moved up to 1200 and did the same these steps too about 1/4 of the time of the 800. here is after 1200 just before buffing. you can see some reflection but up close its still full of scratchs

after that I buffed it out with some race glaze just apply pressure and keep the buffer moving...still need to come back with a leveling compound but still close

tough to get a good pic looks 10x better in person. anyways hope that helps. I'm by no means an expert and everybody has their own way of doing it butjust figured I'd share my experience

:bigsmile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,291 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Whoever said this isn't a 1 or 2 day project was right. I spent about 5 hours on thursay wet sanding just one side of the boat, and then another hour on friday and I still haven't been able to finish it.

I started with 1000 grit then went to 2000 and then 3Ms rubbing compound, moved on to 3Ms Perfect It and was going to finish up with 3Ms clean and Wax.

It looks ten times better because now the side that looked the best now looks the worst.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
NYSuperboat24 said:
Did you try and use something like Wizard's turbo cut or Collinite's Fiberglass restorer/cleaner before moving to sanding? Did none of the liquid methods work?
I second the Wizard's Turbo Cut, and then some Collinite's fleet wax. I too have a red 1987 Pachanga, and bang my head every year in anticipation of cleaning it up. I've done the wetsanding and had tried just about every "heavy oxidation" remover. I was about to give up and get the boat painted, and tried the Wizard's and was very happy with the results. I had never used a buffer and was a little scared I might f it up, but just took advice from the guys on here about how and made out all right. Each year I've gotten better with the buffer and can now have it compounded and polished in a weekend. Keep it wet and the buffer moving. Hope this helps.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top