[Go 4 BROKE]

Hi all,

I have a question about Leverage polish. I bought the whole kit from the Speedwake store. How much of this stuff do I need? I have a 30ft. (29.5) boat and I'm not sure if I have enough? My main concern is the Oxidation Remover. I bought the 16oz. bottle, will I have enough to do my boat or will I need more Oxidation Remover? Can I go over the graphics (stickers) with this or should I avoid them? Thanks, and I appreciate your help.

 

[Rattlesnake Jake]

Depends on how bad the oxidation is..
A couple of pictures of the boat would help.

 

[Go 4 BROKE]

Rattlesnake Jake,

I wouldn't consider it to bad. I went out lastnight with a papertowel and the Oxidizer Remover to test a spot. It came out pretty good with just hand pressure and some elbow grease. Their website said that a "24oz. bottle will do a 30' boat twice when used properly".

 

[OldMagicfloat]

Hey Go4,

Sorry for the delayed response. We've been on the road for a few weeks doing the Boyne, MI. run and the Chicago run. One bottle of the OR should be just enough if used as directed. It all does depend on the condition of the boat.

Here's my 'How I use Leverage' posted previously.

If the boat already has a shine with No oxidation or staining then you need the Polish only. I apply the polish by hand with 2 terry cloth towels. I spray 1 towel 5-6 times and wipe on(no hard scrubbing needed). I wipe down the entire boat with a light coat then I come back and wipe the light residue off with the 2 dry towel(polish entire boat then wipe off). I also polish all of the interior fiberglass, dash, metal and gauges as well. The boat dosen't have to be spotless before you apply the polish, but it needs to be dry. The polish has a very mild cleaning agent that will remove things like spider crap, dust and pollen.

If Oxidation, Fading or Staining is present then you need to start with the (OR)Oxidation Remover. I use the OR with a rotary buffer and a wool pad unless I'm removing small black streaks or cleaning the transom then I work by hand. I've used the Harbor Freight buffers for years and they are great especially for the money! All of my employees use this buffer and I've never had any breakdowns or damage. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90820

Before I buff I always wash the boat down then towel dry. I apply small, thin lines of the OR to the surface(not directly to the pad)and start the buffer at 1200-1400 if the oxidation is bad then hit it a second time at about 2400 to remove any excess residue. I've found it best to use seperate wool pads for each color especially if the oxidation is bad. Most colors will tend to bleed as you are removing the oxidation/fading. If the fiberglass has very mild fading/oxidation then you should be able to run the buffer at 2400-2600 and be done. After I'm finished then I rinse the boat down with fresh water and towel dry. I usually like to come back the next day and apply my Leverage Polish after everything is dry. Then apply the polish according to the directions above.
If the OR is not removing all of the imperfections then wetsanding might be needed for a flawless finish.

All of the Directions are on the bottles, but I like to post up in case anyone has any questions.

Donnie

 

[MoFormula]

Help with haze

Hey Go4,

Sorry for the delayed response. We've been on the road for a few weeks doing the Boyne, MI. run and the Chicago run. One bottle of the OR should be just enough if used as directed. It all does depend on the condition of the boat.

Here's my 'How I use Leverage' posted previously.

If the boat already has a shine with No oxidation or staining then you need the Polish only. I apply the polish by hand with 2 terry cloth towels. I spray 1 towel 5-6 times and wipe on(no hard scrubbing needed). I wipe down the entire boat with a light coat then I come back and wipe the light residue off with the 2 dry towel(polish entire boat then wipe off). I also polish all of the interior fiberglass, dash, metal and gauges as well. The boat dosen't have to be spotless before you apply the polish, but it needs to be dry. The polish has a very mild cleaning agent that will remove things like spider crap, dust and pollen.

If Oxidation, Fading or Staining is present then you need to start with the (OR)Oxidation Remover. I use the OR with a rotary buffer and a wool pad unless I'm removing small black streaks or cleaning the transom then I work by hand. I've used the Harbor Freight buffers for years and they are great especially for the money! All of my employees use this buffer and I've never had any breakdowns or damage. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90820

Before I buff I always wash the boat down then towel dry. I apply small, thin lines of the OR to the surface(not directly to the pad)and start the buffer at 1200-1400 if the oxidation is bad then hit it a second time at about 2400 to remove any excess residue. I've found it best to use seperate wool pads for each color especially if the oxidation is bad. Most colors will tend to bleed as you are removing the oxidation/fading. If the fiberglass has very mild fading/oxidation then you should be able to run the buffer at 2400-2600 and be done. After I'm finished then I rinse the boat down with fresh water and towel dry. I usually like to come back the next day and apply my Leverage Polish after everything is dry. Then apply the polish according to the directions above.
If the OR is not removing all of the imperfections then wetsanding might be needed for a flawless finish.

All of the Directions are on the bottles, but I like to post up in case anyone has any questions.

Donnie

I need advice ... first time to use the buffer. I am experimenting with Leverage oxidation remover, 3M fiberglass restorer, polishing compound, and Meguiars cleaner/wax using a wool pad. I am trying to find something that works. Boat is not in bad shape but above the rubrail it has some oxidation. I have tried each of the above products. I can't seem to get rid of the milky haze. Buffing at 1700 rpms. Do I buff until the compounds dries/hazes? How fast should I move the buffer along ... fast to prevent burning or slower to allow it to cut? Below the rubrail seems to have that clean mirror deep finish. Above the rubrail shines but is not deep and has a milky haze. Need advice !!!

 

[OldMagicfloat]

Hey Mo,

It sounds like you're using a variable speed buffer? The first thing I need you to do is be more agressive with the settings. Running it at 1700 only isn't working, so try it at 2600-2800. Use my OR and apply a small amount directly on the surface. You don't need allot and remember a little bit goes along way. Run a small, semi thin line in a 4-5ft. section and buff it until it's gone(completely dry) moving in a steady side to side motion. Don't worry about burning that Gel Coat surface and especially using a wool pad. If you were using foam then I would recommend caution, but wool is the least likely to cause damage.

Do this for me and please report back. Just try it in a small spot maybe on the deck. Once you finish then take a damp terry towel and and wipe down what you've just buffed. After it's dry then apply a light coat of my polish. Please let me know what you think and if you need anything.

Donnie

 

[OldMagicfloat]

One other thing Mo!

Be sure to keep the buffer cord out of your way! I usually wrap it around my shoulder or my leg depending on what angle I'm working. Also, don't be nervous about running the buffer at the speeds I've recommended. Before you start on the boat hold the buffer at 3,000 in your hands, so you can get use to the light vibration. If it's vibrating terribly bad then take the pad off and try to recenter on the backing plate.

 

[MoFormula]

Hey Mo,

It sounds like you're using a variable speed buffer? The first thing I need you to do is be more agressive with the settings. Running it at 1700 only isn't working, so try it at 2600-2800. Use my OR and apply a small amount directly on the surface. You don't need allot and remember a little bit goes along way. Run a small, semi thin line in a 4-5ft. section and buff it until it's gone(completely dry) moving in a steady side to side motion. Don't worry about burning that Gel Coat surface and especially using a wool pad. If you were using foam then I would recommend caution, but wool is the least likely to cause damage.

Do this for me and please report back. Just try it in a small spot maybe on the deck. Once you finish then take a damp terry towel and and wipe down what you've just buffed. After it's dry then apply a light coat of my polish. Please let me know what you think and if you need anything.

Donnie

Thanks Donnie. I will try this. The OR seemed to almost dull the finish from where it started, so I backed off to a lighter compound. Maybe I didn't give it time to finish its process. I checked my pad and it is a wool/synthetic blend spinning on the Harbor Freight buffer you suggested in a previous thread. BTW, I bought the "starter pack" of your product in the spring and love it. It is sooooo easy to use the polish that it actually makes me want to polish more often. I don't dread it at all.

 

[H8tank]

I have an '07, what is the best thing to protect the finish? What should I do to the hull before storing it away? It will be under a Top Gun full cover and stored in a pole barn. Hull is white with one black stripe as seen below.

Also, what do you suggest for regular vinyl cleaning and protecting, and again what should I do before I store it away?

I do not have a buffer yet... do I need one?

 

[OldMagicfloat]

Hi Tank,

Winter is upon us, so I guess it's time to think about storage.
I always clean and polish everything before I store for the winter, but be sure everything is dry before you put the cover on. Next Spring just pull the cover off and go!

For the Vinyl;

My Vinyl/ Leather Cleaner & Conditioner are both great formulas. They are extremely safe with no perfume or chemical smell. You also won't have to worry about deterioration because they do not contain any harsh additives.

1 bottle of each and a Vinyl/Leather Scrubber.

For the Fiberglass;

From the looks of the picture, you only need Polish. The Black Stripe looks to be in good shape, so buffing won't be necessary unless there's some hidden fading that I can't see. Just follow the instructions and be sure to do the interior and exterior fiberglass, metals, gauges and trim. You can also use the Polish on the windows!

1 bottle of Polish and a few terry cloth towels.

I have a 'How I use Leverage' thread posted with hand polishing and buffing instructions if you need them, but you can also let me know if you need any assistance.

Thanks,
Donnie

 

[H8tank]

Thank you for the reply, I didn't realize this post was in this forum, hence the double post.

The vinyl cleaner, does it inhibit mildew? I have, but have not used a bottle of 3m vinyl mildew protector? Should I use that or not?

Does the speedwake store sell the vinyl scrubber?

The Black and gel are in perfect conidition, always stored indoors. Is the polish safe on tinted glass?

Link to the instruction thread?

Thanks again!

 

[OldMagicfloat]

No problem Tank!

The Vinyl Cleaner does have a mildew inhibitor/cleaning agent, but that's not how mildew is started. The worst thing for mildew is damp conditions like a cover that stays wet or someone with a wet interior putting a cover on then putting the boat in a shed.

The best solutions I've found, if you put the cover on immediately after use or when wet, is leave the boat in the sun and let the heat dry it out or towing for awhile which will usually dry it out.

I did an 08'Cobalt this summer that was covered in mildew. The customer didn't realize that his roof was leaking and keeping his canvas cover wet. The Vinyl looked ten years old before we started. Lots of elbow grease!

Yes, the Polish is safe for tinted windows and isen glass.

The Vinyl Scrubber isn't currently in the store. My 'to do' list includes contacting Jeff, so I'll try to get in touch with him tomorrow. I will also try to add my Buffing Pads, Backing Plate and Terry Towels.

Didn't realize it, but my 'How to' is about 4 posts up in this thread.

Let me know if you need anything.

Donnie

 

[H8tank]

What do you suggest washing the boat with before using the leverage polish?

 

[OldMagicfloat]

I like mild soaps. I make my own, but I don't have it on the market yet. Be careful with soaps that say wash/wax. They tend to be more harmful than good. Unless you have allot of grime just use water out of a high pressure nozzle like a car wash. Once the Polish is on, water and a towel only, unless you've been boating in salt water. My soap is a Fiberglass Wash/ Salt Deposit Remover. I should be finished with bottling/labeling in December.

Donnie

 

[Scandelous]

loi