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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Black Wishbone said:
I am going to throw one more out there and I hope I am wrong it could be water logged. If you can get it weighed.

Steve
How much should it weigh?

I only use the Blazer for moving it around, but with a built 4.3 and 4.88 gears it can pull it. It doesn't weigh enough to do highway speeds safely with that boat. I normally tow with a Super Duty and it still feels heavy.

And I dunno about the Decals. I have to think about it. I like the name Religion and I like the Liberator decals as well.
 

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Religion said:
Hey everybody, I bought my first boat a few months ago ('89 LIberator 241) after spending last summer on an '88 211. The previous owner repowered my 241 with a 7.4 MPI so i thought this boat might scoot. Well I was wrong. The 211 would do 55 GPS'd anyday with 2 ppl. I can only get my 241 up to 38 GPS'd with two ppl and full tank of gas. The prop is a Merc Marine Offshore Series 48-825902A 46 21P 4 blade aluminum. 1.50 ratio. My max RPM has been 4700. Doing the math I've got about 39% prop slip. The boat does have bottom paint which I thought might add some drag. Any suggestions on how to make this boat faster or is this what I get for having such a big heavy boat and a stock big block?

Thanks for any input.

I don't know much about the Libbys, but a guy I know swore by them, they are well built but heavy. My 88 Scarab 454 will run low 70's..................................behind my Banks Duramax on the highway. Really though, I think you could turn a 23, mine would with a stock big block, 38 seems very slow is your prop damaged? Also I was always under the impression that you have to run a stainless prop on a big block because of the torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yeah, I'm gonna look for a good used SS 3 Blade 23P. I'll also see if a local marina participates in that Mercury test prop program and maybe try out a couple different props before plunking down dinero on a prop that MIGHT improve performance.

What do I need to know about hubs/props/Bravo I? I don't wanna buy a used prop that won't fit my hub. Id like to try the Mirage Plus.
 

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I had an '88 211 with a 340 hp OMC that did 62 on a good day...60 any day of the week. Repowered with a 625 hp 540 and could stand an 80 mph speedo needle straight down.
Quite a wild ride.
There is a problem some where. You should be doing more than 38 mph
 

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its the prop, I had one of those merc aluminum four blader like yours
which was fine until I went to a big block, then the boat actually went slower,turns out those merc aluminum 4 bladers arent strong enough to stay straight under the weight of the boat and the torque of a big block so they flatten out under load.
Put a stainless prop on there and you will be back in business.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
HTRDLNCN said:
its the prop, I had one of those merc aluminum four blader like yours
which was fine until I went to a big block, then the boat actually went slower,turns out those merc aluminum 4 bladers arent strong enough to stay straight under the weight of the boat and the torque of a big block so they flatten out under load.
Put a stainless prop on there and you will be back in business.
That's what I was thinking. Working in the machine industry I've see metal do some crazy stuff and it wouldn't surprise me if the blades were flexxing. I also thought the prev owner might have takin the SS prop off before selling it.

Thanks again for all the input. I'm glad everyone is so willing to help out a beginner.
 

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Right at 3600lbs with the 454. Remember..These are the 245 Vista hull. 8'6" beam. Alot of boat to move.
My 241 with twinn 350s,3 blade Hydramotives & nose cones ran 65 Radar on its BEST day

We used to have a bunch of libbys running around Cincinnati. 7-8 of us ran together every weekend..Great fun. I'll look for you on the river
 

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Religion said:
Yeah, I'm gonna look for a good used SS 3 Blade 23P. I'll also see if a local marina participates in that Mercury test prop program and maybe try out a couple different props before plunking down dinero on a prop that MIGHT improve performance.
Id like to try the Mirage Plus.
Someone stated earlier about running a Ballistic. These old Libbys LOVE them. They are made by Michigan wheel. I would try to get a 21 or a 23. that should help a TON with performance ;)
 

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10 mph? There was talk at one time that a SLIGHTLY rough surface was faster than "speed coated" waxed bottoms. Little tiny micro air bubbles/pockets formed and reduced adhesion...10 mph sure seems like ALOT. Especially if your talking 50 to 40 mph type of rig...But I guess a thick coat, a few layers may add 500-600 lbs too (after soaking up a bunch of the lake too)
 

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RSCHAP1 said:
10 mph? There was talk at one time that a SLIGHTLY rough surface was faster than "speed coated" waxed bottoms. Little tiny micro air bubbles/pockets formed and reduced adhesion...10 mph sure seems like ALOT. Especially if your talking 50 to 40 mph type of rig...But I guess a thick coat, a few layers may add 500-600 lbs too (after soaking up a bunch of the lake too)
I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't witnesed it myself. On my own boats, if I left them in the water for even a week, the very slight algea growth would slow the boat down in a huge way. (fresh water) I think the bottom paint, if not applied with a sprayer properly, leaves ridges and imperfections that really add to the drag. On big cruisers it dosen't reallty matter as much, but after 35 MPH or so, it does. Try taking a DA sander to the entire bottom, with a very fine grit, to just even out the paint. maybe that may help.
 

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Religion said:
I would love to remove the bottom paint. How do i do that without damaging the gel coat? I've heard that once it's on there it's on there?
I had it too and it made a reasonable large difference in speed. I had it professional removed as from what I could figure it wasn't going to be a job I wanted to get involved in. After watching them do it, I was glad I didn't. Here is in progress:
 

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