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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am just about ready to break in my motor after the rebuild. Comp cams recommends 15-20 minutes between 1500 and 2000RPM's. Is it safe to do this on the hose at the house? I don't really want to do this at the dock. Town water supply so plenty of pressure and flow. What are your thoughts??
 

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Rollers don't need a breaking period. Flat tappets do and Comps directions are correct.
I've seen it work ok on a garden hose and I've also seen the Merc sea water pump suck a garden hose flat and cut off the water supply.
Just keep an eye on things while running ;)
 

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I'd do it in the water if possible. At sustained 2000 RPM, there's a good chance that the hose will not keep up... Heating up a new engine ain't such a good idea. But remember... NO idle time, not even off the trailer to the dock. Run it right in the launch on the trailer. Also, get a light on it quick to get the timing close. At 2000, it's easy to run it with the timing off a ways and not know... Not good either.

Use some good break in oil too, Gibbs BR or Brad Penn, or at least lots of break in additive. Alot of people suggest Rotella T, but it's not much good anymore either.

Good luck
 

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Remove the seapump intake hose from the transom assembly and shove the garden hose into the intake hose. This will prevent the garden hose from getting sucked down as you rev it up. Also, 1500rpm is a little low, keep it above 2000rpm. Make sure the engine is timed close to right and if there are any problems shut it off, don't let it idle down at all. You can set the final timing after breakin.

I run rotella t 15-45 oil, the only oil other than Dello you should run if running flat tappet cams. They are deisel engine oils and like NP said contain the heavy metals necessary to make a flat tappet cam live.
 

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tmthunder said:
I am just about ready to break in my motor after the rebuild. Comp cams recommends 15-20 minutes between 1500 and 2000RPM's. Is it safe to do this on the hose at the house? I don't really want to do this at the dock. Town water supply so plenty of pressure and flow. What are your thoughts??

I wondered the same thing this spring, run my bbc on the hose to break in cam and it was alright. I was going to take it to the boat launch but could see myself with timing light, wrenches other misc. stuff pissing off the fisherman and explaining that this had to happen for 20 minutes, don't think I would be very popular, luckily I had no problems on the hose, but I was worried. I run Cenpeco oil.
 

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The newer versions of Rotella T and Chevron Delo which meet the API's CJ-4 rating have a much lower concentration of zinc and phosphorus than previous blends which met the API's CI-4 rating. The levels of zinc and phosphorus were reduced due to their damaging effects on the exhaust particulate filters found on late 2007 and up diesels which also require ultra low sulfur fuel. These oils with the CJ-4 certification are also referred to as "ashless" or "low soot", and have zinc/phosphorus levels of approx. 1100ppm. Good break in oils, such as Gibbs BR or Brad Penn have levels of 1500ppm or higher. They also contain some sulfer which has benefits as well. The diesel oils contain no sulfur. Also, Joe Gibbs XP series oils contain the same levels of Zinc/phosphorus/sulfur as the BR... for regular use after your break in. If you want to use the diesel oils, I'd stick to the ones with the earlier CI-4 certification.

Not trying to start an oil opinon war here... the diesel oils are still better than regular old run of the mill oils. Just throwing a little info out there, hopefully it can prevent a cam failure or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the input! I am running Valvoline Not Street Legal Race oil 20W-50 dino not synthetic. This has plenty of Zinc from what I could find. I am also running the comp cams additive for break in. Hopefully Tuesday will be the day. I think what I am going to due is run 2 hoses that way there will be more than enough water.
 

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You should be fine. Keep an eye on the temp, if it gets warm.... shut it down & let it cool a bit. The break in doesn't have to be a continuous run. Also, it doesn't hurt to throw a bottle of that Comp additive in with each oil change, even after the break in. Good luck.
 

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cubicinches said:
The newer versions of Rotella T and Chevron Delo which meet the API's CJ-4 rating have a much lower concentration of zinc and phosphorus than previous blends which met the API's CI-4 rating. The levels of zinc and phosphorus were reduced due to their damaging effects on the exhaust particulate filters found on late 2007 and up diesels which also require ultra low sulfur fuel. These oils with the CJ-4 certification are also referred to as "ashless" or "low soot", and have zinc/phosphorus levels of approx. 1100ppm. Good break in oils, such as Gibbs BR or Brad Penn have levels of 1500ppm or higher. They also contain some sulfer which has benefits as well. The diesel oils contain no sulfur. Also, Joe Gibbs XP series oils contain the same levels of Zinc/phosphorus/sulfur as the BR... for regular use after your break in. If you want to use the diesel oils, I'd stick to the ones with the earlier CI-4 certification.

Not trying to start an oil opinon war here... the diesel oils are still better than regular old run of the mill oils. Just throwing a little info out there, hopefully it can prevent a cam failure or two.

My builder dynod one of my motors and i broke in the other my self. I did it on the hose the way BT suggested. I ran mine at 2500 for 10-15 minutes. The builder had Gibbs BR in both motors. To keep my flat tappets alive he said i could keep running BR or Valvoline NON STREET LEGAL 20-50. I called him about the Rotella and he said that should be just fine. Gibbs oil is VERY good and also VERY expensive.
 

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just did this a couple moonths ago... on muffs... far as I know worked just fine. Another vote for Rotella T per engine builder and personal reading, research, etc...

especially is fine if you use breakin lube and run the oil pressure up with a drill first. start it, quick set timing about right, run rpm up and vary between 2000 and 3000 rpms for 20 min (hose didn't have a prob keeping up, and if it overheats, just stop and do it again once you work it out... doesn't have to be continuous, just has to have enough rpms / oil flow to properly supply the surfaces during break-in.

Rotella T with the CI- (vs CJ - ) rating still has plenty of zinc-based anti-scuff additive for break in and use with flat tappet cams - either 15-40 or 30 wt. just be sure to check the rating on the container. Some of the other oils people mention for break-in are also great.

in my not so expert opinion...
 

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I just changed my oil Saturday and the rotella jug says: Meets API Service CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CG-4, G-4,CF/SM, SI, SJ. It seems the new stuff in the new style jugs meet CI and CJ rating.

But the rating that means the most.... ask purdy much any trucker what they run in their million mile heavily loaded engines.
 

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Blue Thunder said:
I just changed my oil Saturday and the rotella jug says: Meets API Service CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CG-4, G-4,CF/SM, SI, SJ. It seems the new stuff in the new style jugs meet CI and CJ rating.
CJ-4 Superceeds CI-4. If it has the CJ-4 rating it has the lower level of ZDDP.
 

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Blue Thunder said:


But the rating that means the most.... ask purdy much any trucker what they run in their million mile heavily loaded engines.
Yep... Their million mile, heavily loaded, steel billet roller cam engines...
 

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what he said. I haven't seen enough side by side in stores, but I do know that the Rotela T that I've been running for break in is rated "CI" and that that's the rating with the higher zinc level in it... even the other is still probably fine since the reduction is a phase-out scheduled over years....
 

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cubicinches said:
Yep... Their million mile, heavily loaded, steel billet roller cam engines...
FYI - deisel engines were made with flat tappet cams and many of them exist yet today.

Also, the germaine letter in the API designation is the "C", not the I or J. The CJ 4 designation just has additional test parameters above the CI designation. The are mutually interchangeable unless you run a post 2007 deisel engine that requires the Utlra low sulfur fuels.

Much to do about nothing.............
 

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Blue Thunder said:
FYI - deisel engines were made with flat tappet cams and many of them exist yet today.

Also, the germaine letter in the API designation is the "C", not the I or J. The CJ 4 designation just has additional test parameters above the CI designation. The are mutually interchangeable unless you run a post 2007 deisel engine that requires the Utlra low sulfur fuels.

Much to do about nothing.............
:sleepy:
 
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