Okay link didn't work. I copied and pasted below.

This is from Scoggin-Dickey's website.

Big Block Chevrolet Gen V and Gen VI Oiling SystemSolving the mystery of the Gen V and Gen VI Priority Main Oiling system
Priority Main Oiling System
The Generation V and VI big block Chevrolet blocks feature a priority main oiling system where the main oil supply passage is located adjacent to the camshaft tunnel. Drilled passages which intersect this large oil tunnel carry oil directly to the main bearings. If you are facing the front of the block with the engine in the upright position, this main oil supply tunnel is located in the 2 o’clock position just below the right hand lifter oil supply line.

Oil Cooler Plumbing
Located along the oil pan rail just ahead of the oil filter pad are two drilled and tapped (3/8” NPT) oil passages for routing oil to an external oil cooler. The hole located closest to the oil filter pad (#2) is for the outgoing supply line to the oil cooler. The front passage (#1), which is farthest from the filter pad, is the return line from the oil cooler.

Careful examination reveals that these two passages intersect the same return line that feeds oil back to the main oil tunnel. This requires that a special fitting be used in the #2 supply line to prevent oil from short circuiting the oil cooler.

Part number SD1540 provides the necessary diverter basket to prevent the supply oil from entering the return line before going to the oil cooler. This fitting has a dash 10AN thread to allow the use of aftermarket components to plumb your external oil cooler. The front passage #1 will require a 3/8” NPT by dash 10AN adapter (#FCM2185), which is available from Scoggin-Dickey.

Understanding By-pass Valve Locations
Factory assembled 454, 502 engines and short blocks have two by-pass valves installed in the block. These factory installed by-pass valves (#25013759) will open at an 11 psi pressure differential. One by-pass valve is installed in the center hole on the oil filter pad (#4). This hole is the oil return passage from the oil filter. The second by-pass valve is installed in the adjacent hole (#3). The egg shaped hole (#5) is the high pressure oil supply passage from the oil pump.

For all racing application that will NOT use an oil cooler but will maintain the stock oil filter location, you must remove the center by-pass valve in location #4. Removing this valve eliminates three redundant right runs in the oil system. However, if you leave this by-pass in place the oil system will still function as it was intended, but a loss of oil pressure can result from the four right angle turns required for oil to return to the main oil tunnel.

If you intend to use a remote oil filter, a high pressure by-pass valve part number 25161284 must be installed in position #3. This valve will open at a 30 psi pressure differential. A plug will be installed in position #4 to prevent oil flow thru this passage. Oil should be returned to the block in the 3/8” hole located just able the oil filter pad. An oil filter block off plate kit (#SD3891) can be purchased from Scoggin-Dickey for Gen V and VI blocks to plumb your external oil filter.

If you intend to maintain the stock filter location and will use the factory provided oil cooler passages to install your oil cooler, then you must install two high pressure by-pass valves (#25161284). One will be installed in location #3 and the second in location #4. Happy oiling!

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You doubted me? And my linking ability? :laugher: :laugher: :laugher:

 

Yeh, me too. :bigsmile:

Let me know if I should use it or not. :laugher:

I'm slated for Friday or Saturday. Works so friggin busy - which is great and as you can tell because I'm still around the forum - but takes me away from testin' the motor.

But, I really want to find out how much more power your motor is going to make over mine.

Seriously! :bigsmile:

 

Having studied this subject for the past six months, I can definetly say YES..........and NO

 

I'm using Revolution Marine's Oil Cooler. Cost $199.00
I already had a seperate PS cooler.

I am using a Perma-Cool 180 Oil T-Stat.

Results? Who knows! I can't seem to get this thing in the boat to test this.

Dyno testing this is a waste of time. Tried it! Can't build up enough temp on the dyno. I had to remove the cooler so I could build some oil temp. :shocked: :shocked:

 

so......this info is telling me to PLUG the center hole, however in the past threads, including kidnovas, wasnt the answer to leave the plug out? and just install the 30# one?

 

I have the 3 x 16" tubes combo cooler on a 580hp Gen4 block

I also have the Lightning?Eickert cast alum oil pan with cooling fins. Oil temp sender in pan. The combo cooler works fine in spring when water temps are in the 50-60 range. But when summer gets here it is no enough. I feel like I have exhausted all my options except going to a 12 QT steffs. Here is my old and new coolers. The new one is Teagues Offshore cooler 22.5" long x 4" dia with the water making 2 passes thru 18" tubes.

 

The new cooler is probably overkill, but I would really like to be done with worrying about high oil temps. I may have to install an oil thermostat like CFM to maintain a healthy oil temp. The Powersteering cooler is 6" long overall and will probably be under the engine. I am going to remove the back seat and hatch Monday and get started on these mods.

 

Cool...no pun intended, I have red carpeted engine bay, too. Don't see much carpet under most hatches...

That 4" is incredible!

Just ordered Eddie's 3X22 combo cooler; longest 3 inch combo cooler I could find. Hopefully it works well enough, better yet too well, and I have to get a stand alone oil thermostat.

Perfprotech said they would make a longer one than listed, but would only make it 2"dia.; whoopee.

CP lists 3X22 and 3X28 combos with integral thermostat but they're 1" NPT and then I have to change everything else, and at $477 and $491 without mounts, I could refrigerate my oil cheaper.

Didn't want to seperate coolers either; more to mount and plumb.

Wobble, how hot in summer after a blast with old cooler?

Stingray69,

In August I can run a steady 4800-5000 rpm and maintain about 240-260F But if I get hard in it at 5600-5700 I can only run a couple of minutes before I back out at 290-300F