Ok guys where does your oil temp usually run, and what temp at what Rpm's, reason I ask is I was out with a friend today and when we ran the boat(35 Lighting) with 465hp 502ci's the water temp ran 140-160 and the oil temp ran up to around 300 on a 3min or so WOT run, when we slowed down the temps came down slowly and eventually didn't run much of any temp when running at 3000 rpm's, The motors came out of a boat that had lavorsi guages and this boat has Stewart Warner guages, all guage sending units are from the boat with Lavorsi guages, all guages seem to work fine except for the oil temp or the boat is running HIGH oil temp. What do you guys think??
NYS POWERBOAT Inc
You can do a search on oil temps in this forum, there has been a lot of discussions about it. generally from what I have seen 250* seems to be about the most you should go but some of us live on the edge more than others 
Get a infrared temp gauge and check your oil pan temp after a run, or see if you can touch your oil filter if its 300* you probably can't touch it for long .
Get a infrared temp gauge and check your oil pan temp after a run, or see if you can touch your oil filter if its 300* you probably can't touch it for long .
NN -
Where is the temp sender located, what size coolers, what size oil lines, is there a separate thermostat to control oil temps .........
You might want to check ALL the connections to the sensors and gauges too.
300* is way hot, especially if the sensor is in the pan. To be safe, I'd suggest changing over to synthetic oil until the problem is chased down. I had high oil temps on my ZZ502/502 and switched to Mobile 1 V-Twin 20/50 due to the good additives plus the oil's ability to deal with high temp. I finally got the temps down to where they should be, but chasing the problem was a PIA.
If I can help feel free to give me a call 677-9295.
Bill
Where is the temp sender located, what size coolers, what size oil lines, is there a separate thermostat to control oil temps .........
You might want to check ALL the connections to the sensors and gauges too.
300* is way hot, especially if the sensor is in the pan. To be safe, I'd suggest changing over to synthetic oil until the problem is chased down. I had high oil temps on my ZZ502/502 and switched to Mobile 1 V-Twin 20/50 due to the good additives plus the oil's ability to deal with high temp. I finally got the temps down to where they should be, but chasing the problem was a PIA.
If I can help feel free to give me a call 677-9295.
Bill
Thanks Bill I appreciate it, I'm just asking for a friend, I am the proud captin of a new dull Pontoon, No more go fast for me, Everything is in slo-mo now or "LOWKEY" as optimus says, I appreciate the offer and help.
Below 180 NEVER hammer on the engine can cause damage.
180-220 Range Very good for conventional and synthetic
220-240 Fine for syn, with convention you need to monitor stuff and run short burst
240-260 Okay for syn, conventionals will break down quickly. An engine in this range will need more maintenance.
260+ Syn will work but engine maintence will be greatly increased. With conventionals the engine will not live long at all.
For those with hyd rollers. Clean oil is your friend. Anyone running a stout hyd roller set up with hyd roller lifters will extend the life greatly with a scheduled maintence program.
Above is not the gosple but good guidelines we have found over the years.
180-220 Range Very good for conventional and synthetic
220-240 Fine for syn, with convention you need to monitor stuff and run short burst
240-260 Okay for syn, conventionals will break down quickly. An engine in this range will need more maintenance.
260+ Syn will work but engine maintence will be greatly increased. With conventionals the engine will not live long at all.
For those with hyd rollers. Clean oil is your friend. Anyone running a stout hyd roller set up with hyd roller lifters will extend the life greatly with a scheduled maintence program.
Above is not the gosple but good guidelines we have found over the years.
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