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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
took the boat out yesterday, taking it easy, coming off plane and I heard a knocking sound, first though was the motor, opened the hatch it definitely sounded like a rod knock coming from the back of the motor, stuck my head in the engine compartment and it sounded like it was coming from the coupler area.

The sound went away after a couple minutes if idling, I never went back off an idle the rest of the day so I'm not sure if it's still there when not idling.

Gimbal and coupler are new last year, I changed the drive oil and I have little chunks on the magnet. Very small pieces but more than shavings. Both of the fill screws had debris. Any ideas? Would a a outdrive going bad make a rod knock sound?

The motor never lost oil pressure and really sounded fine so I think the sound came from the drive maybe the upper?
 

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Call me if you get a chance.....If you think the drive is the problem, I can get that drive torn down and checked over by the guy that does all our drives up here (not James :)). Not cheap, but cheaper than a marine mechanic and much cheaper than having a drive come apart while underway.
 

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I would bet the drive. Check the top cap bolts. Most likely you will find some of them loose and that is causing excessive play in the bearings in turn breaking teeth off your gear set. A little personal experience.......now I check the top cap bolts every time I leave the house.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
what is the torque setting on the top bolt caps?

Russ, about how much does he charge to rebuild the upper? I saw a couple new ones on oso for around 1600-1800.

does anyone know if the new style upper will match up with the older lower?

also, I have a Latham HD steering, would that fit on a new style?
 

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How many hours on that fluid. If it's just a hour or 2 then that is way too much metal....the other one appears to have chunks...not good if that is the case.
If your thinking of replacing a drive or an upper, a buddy just bought XR uppers and has regular bravos he's planning on selling. (actually has one XR upper that will be for sale as well.)

Check your PM's, I'll send you more info.
 

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Pete......your PM's not allowed.

7-8 of us pooled our money together to buy all the tools needed to re-build drives. James has all the tools at his place and thinks he can rebuild them but......John is a buddy of ours that actually knows what he's doing and can go through yours if your interested.
We can arrange to meet if you drive up here one day and let you know what yours looks like before you leave. If it's minor stuff, you can take it back home with you. $250.00 if it's a dis-assemble/re-assemble...they may have parts if you need any???
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
probably 15-20 hrs in drive oil, I changed it when the motor was out last year. it's more than shavings, I hat to fix something that's not broke yet but I also dont want to get stranded.

Can I just remove the top cap to inspect or does that open a can of worms?

I'll give you a call tommorrow, what's your cell?

I have to buy something from the speedwake store and I dont know my password, havent felt like creating a new account.
 

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like Lil red boat said, if something is going bad, it's cheaper and more convienent to fix it on your terms. You can pull the top cap, just be sure to replace it like you found it.....you won't be able to see alot, but you can see part of it. It does sound like it's getting ready to come apart on you one way or the other.
Russ C.
8O4-9I4-2628
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
naw, what do you mean RS? I only replaced the motor, gimbal ring, exhaust manifolds and just about every other part in th engine compartment. Why not the outdrive, :dead1:


I'll call BAM today and get the parts ordered, I'll give you a call Russ. Thanks
 

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I had the same thing, then blew out the upper gear set..

I'd take the guys advice, it's no fun to break down in the middle of no where. On top of that, I felt like crap looking at all the water I polluted with the drive oil.
 

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Internal exhaust tip flappers that the rubber has worn off can cause a rod knocking sound at idle, especially in the transom area inside the bilge. The pulses from the exhuast can make them knock around alot at idle.

First time I heard a set of flappers making that noise, I was ready to start yanking the engine out for a rebuild, boy was I happy to realize it was just the flappers!
 

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Mild Thunder said:
Internal exhaust tip flappers that the rubber has worn off can cause a rod knocking sound at idle, especially in the transom area inside the bilge. The pulses from the exhuast can make them knock around alot at idle.

First time I heard a set of flappers making that noise, I was ready to start yanking the engine out for a rebuild, boy was I happy to realize it was just the flappers!
DITTO I thought it was a rod knock at first also. After I listened it was coming from the back of the motor. I was checking the coupler, joints and everything. Then somebody on iboats said to check the flappers. I removed them to test and it was quiet as heck. I replaced them with the new drop in style and problem gone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
dug into it and the upper gear (horizontal that;s attached to the shaft) has a missing tooth. Luckily I noticed the sound and didnt take it out again to test it.

Questions?

do I have to seperate the upper from lower to disassemble?

there is little metal chunks in the oil, if I rebuild the upper can I just flush out the lower to clean it out?

I plan on taking it somewhere to rebuild it, I would like to diassemble if I can w/o special tools.
 

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You can separate the 2 halves at the six bolts...and the seventh one under the rear zinc.
You can rebuild just one 1/2 but it will need the be separated first, but I REALLY recommend going through the bottom end too. It is much easier to clean it out of any metal and shouldn't cost more than $150-200 to go through it if nothing else is wrong.
 
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