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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of uprading my RPM intake to a Victor Jr. Since the Victor Jr has a raised water crossover / thermostat mounting pad, I think I am going to have Thermostat housing to water pump hose length issues. The original motor was a 91 5.7L with the design 2 thermostat housing. or the tall one all cast is one. Does a big block have a longer hose or maybe one of the 500HP bulldogs with a single plane intake have a bigger hose? Or does anyine know of a slighly longer hose than a 32-861590A05 or 806825. I'm going to mock it up tonight, but I would like to get a hose on order if I'm going to need a longer one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pretty tuff to find 1 3/4 heater hose let alone one with two 100 degree turns in them. Mind you, this is the hose from the thermostat housing to the water pump.

Victor Jr is going on a 383
 

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Any autopart store sells that corregated (sp) hose made for radiator to waterpump or thermo to radiator on cars. You can bend it numerous ways. It may even work on the boat setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ahh, didn't even think of that. I'm sure that will work unless someone can come up with a longer formed hose. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well, I guess nevermind. I mocked it up tonight and the hose actually fits a little better .
 

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What are the specs on the 383? If I remember from old posts you have an SS drive on the boat. How's it running? I am using an portmatched to my AFR's RPM AirGap instead of the Vic Jr. If you are staying under 6K rpms you really can't utilize the Vic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
383, Comp XMR274, Ported Trick Flow G1, 10:1, Forged everything, Vic Jr w/800 DP, Kodiak Exh.

Just seeing what it will do. I've heard the jr will work well on a 383 from 5000 and up compared to an RPM. Air Gap I don't know. Try to sping the motor to 5500, but I'm probably going to juice it sooner or later.

SS seems to be holding up behind the 437hp (through dyno headers and 470 lb.ft. I'm thinking about yanking the drive this weekend and checking alignment and the drive gears.
 

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I did the same thing. Spent the better part of a day searching for a hose then gave up and put the old one on. It works fine. I was told to try the victor jr. My butt dyno says I lost a bit down low then it comes on strong at about 3500.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
THis thing has so damn much low end power that it will not be hurting me much if I loose a little below 3000.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh by that way Satman, what motor are you running and what carb?
 

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Here is my monster.
SBC 383
86+ roller block 4.0313 bore 9.015 deck splayed mains forged end caps
Scat forged crank Scat 5.7" H beam rods 7/16 bolts
Melling Select oil pump
KB735 forged step dish pistons
9.7:1 compression ratio
Canfield 220 heads (These were a bargain so I had a custom cam ground)
Hornet Shaft Rockers 1.6in 1.5ex
Comp Cams anti pump up roller lifters.
Cam Specs:
Lobe Sep 113.8
[email protected] IN 274.64 EX 288.62
[email protected] IN 223.85 EX 236.23
Peak Torque 4600rpm
Peak HP 5700rpm
Canton pan and windage tray approx 9 Qts
Edelbrock 750cfm carb Victor JR manifold 2 stages lean from out of the box
90% ARP bolts
Revolution Marine 4" thru hull exhaust
Pics to follow
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice motor. Ours are very similar. Did you actually get the motor dyno'd or is that where the cam company said peak power would be? Mine made its peak Hp at 5600RPM and peak torque at 4200. Did you get any port work done on the canfields? I'm curious what they flow.
 

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Thanks. Those figures are from the cam guy. By the time I got it assembled I was out of time and money so I had to skip the dyno. The heads and intake are untouched. I port matched the exhaust manifolds. There are some flow specs on Canfields website.
 
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