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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I took to the machine shop to pull and install screw in studs. well they say there for a week and I said hmm. Let me try... I bought the tool which is like 15 bucks. All it is , is a hunk of steel but it works. First pic is stock , then removed and tapped and finally the screw in's installed. (Temp of course. I need to clean them) I'm running GMPP's 1.6 rr's so I dont need guides. Saved myself 140 bones. And yes they are all DEAD even. I made sure 300 times.
 

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Mkos1980 said:
I took to the machine shop to pull and install screw in studs. well they say there for a week and I said hmm. Let me try... I bought the tool which is like 15 bucks. All it is , is a hunk of steel but it works. First pic is stock , then removed and tapped and finally the screw in's installed. (Temp of course. I need to clean them) I'm running GMPP's 1.6 rr's so I dont need guides. Saved myself 140 bones. And yes they are all DEAD even. I made sure 300 times.
Where did you get the tool???
 

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Mkos1980 said:
And yes they are all DEAD even. I made sure 300 times.

Jam up. A real do-it-yourselfer :bigsmile: :bigsmile:


Dead even is good but not so critical as it is with a positive stop rocker system like some ford and chrysler stuff. Since the nut adjusts on the chevy stud there just needs to be enough threads to properly adjust the nut.


Good job :bigsmile: :bigsmile: :bigsmile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Re: Started to work on the heads.

Fyhr Factor said:
Where did you get the tool???
Summit Racing.

I drilled out the pushrod holes to 1/2in tongiht so the pushrod wont hit the top of the origional guide when I use the 1.6RR's I'll post more pics tongiht as I just stripped them , painted them and installed the springs again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Prob tomorrow. I found one thing I didnt like... I did the mineral spirets leak down test on the combustion chambers last night to see how well the valves hold. I rapped on the stem very little with a hammer to seat the valves after i put them in. They hold perfect except Number 1 exhaust. It seeps right though. (Others do too but it takes awhile) I called a local rebuilder and he said they will seat better after they are ran. He said alot of rebuilds will seep a tad. He mentioned that I should put a little compound on the one valve leaking a little and grind it a tad. Any thoughts?

PS This local rebuilder is not the guy who did the heads. I dunno who did them. Got them from some guy from Kansas City
 

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Mkos1980 said:
I called a local rebuilder and he said they will seat better after they are ran. He said alot of rebuilds will seep a tad. He mentioned that I should put a little compound on the one valve leaking a little and grind it a tad. Any thoughts?
Personally I have a zero tolerance for seepage on a valve face.

I wouldn't install the heads and just run the engine hoping that the valve seat will "heal". :rolleyes: Too much work involved there. :winker:

The compound is called "lapping compound" and it comes in various grits. Normally a valve should give a great pattern and seal after grinding the face, then lapping the valve gives a polished seal for perfection. It is possible that a rough grit like 120 could get the valve to seal, then smooth that down with 180.
I am careful with the hammer idea. Even though the spring is holding the stem a resulting bent valve is not good or mushrooming the valve can also result. A little tap can help just the slightest bit but I prefer the machining and lapping to do the work.


If you don't have a hand lapping tool, or if it takes a lot of lapping, another method to get aggressive more safely is use a drill and chuck the stem in the drill and use the drill to spin the valve. Be sure to lubricate the stem in the guide well if using this method.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
GGRRRR. I rigged up a pressure test and it failed. Its a no go with these heads they way they are. Cant risk the rest of the boating season for a few mph. They are going up to Victory Racing tomorrow for the guys to look at them. They rebuilt both motors in my other 4 wheeled toys with good results. I cant really complain though. I paid 125 for them (175 shipped) with just a so called basic rebuild. Heck.. looking at my compitition valve job on my car from them it was like 280 bucks. So for 475 I should have a decent set of heads and a set I know will perform. Oh the sadness :(
 

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Sorry to hear about the delay,, .... just glad to hear you checked them over well and bringing them to someone you can trust to do it right........
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just got back and have somewhat good news. They took them back apart for me and ran a tool up and down the valve guides and said those were in good shape. He said the valves were cut and in good shape. He said it looks like an ok job, but he said do a little more hand lapping on the valves. He said that the valves are only utilizing about a certain amount of the sealing surface. (I forgot what he said 1mm or something) They would like to see a bit more. He said its reallly hard to stop a small leak on freshed heads. I said should I sell these and pay a couple hundred more for a new set of vortecs? Hes like hang on and brought out a brand new fastburn head for a customer they are building a motor for. Poured a little solvent in it and sure enough at about a minute we had a drop of solvent work its way though. I kinda just scratched my head. He said when ou pour solvent in and it goes through pretty quickly thats bad. But said a drop or two is nothing to be concerned with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
All together now with the Newest Lunati Pacaloy Beehives, Comp 787-16 retainers and Comps machined locks. The swap will start sept 2nd after the last big outing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Utilizing the stock setup, they are installed just under 1.81 and have .595 between retainer and guide seal. Perfect for the 525 lift I will be running.
 
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