Powerboat Forums at SpeedWake banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Something seems to be up with my starboard captains call exhaust valve. It sticks closed, and I noticed it today when wakeboarding behind the boat, thinking the worse that the exhaust is going bad. The port side was blowing it's normal high amount of water, and just a trickle was coming out of the starboard side. I had the guy driving flip the switch back and forth a few times, and it snapped the circuit breaker, which we reset. I got in the boat, and noticed it was indeed sticking, and I had to help it by hand. The associated riser was also quite hot; is that normal when running one side through the prop like that? I'm guessing it's just a bad solenoid- it's the Corsa system. Can one just safety wire the exhaust valves open and pull the fuse, or is there some side effect to doing something like that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,762 Posts
I had problems with my Merc silent choice doing the same thing. Merc's is air activated system though. I got tired of messing with it and I banded the diverters open with some tie wraps. Then when I repowered I removed the whole system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Super24 said:
I had problems with my Merc silent choice doing the same thing. Merc's is air activated system though. I got tired of messing with it and I banded the diverters open with some tie wraps. Then when I repowered I removed the whole system.
That's what I was leaning toward, just safety wiring both valves open and pulling the fuse until I can get a replacement actuator. So there aren't any problems with reversion or anything like that if you go this route? I'm just wondering why the systems are always set up to slam both valves closed (go through prop) during "crank," then reopen when the key is let go to the "run" position. Or it could be just because they're powered open. I just don't want to screw something up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,711 Posts
Check and see if yours is a 10 or 20 amp system. You can tell by the number on the red circuit breaker. Corsa upgraded them to 20 amps around 1998. But by the sounds of it your solenoid is gone. You can zipstrap them open safely until you get a new solenoid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
The standard, non-powered position is probably closed. When you crank the engine, power to the accessories is normally cut to recruit as much power as possible for starting the engine. The same thing happens when you start your car with the headlights and AC on.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top