Well its about time! I bought an engine hoist from harbor freight and added a ram extension. Works great and it was cheap. Other than that you can come over here and I'll put it in for you. I get the first ride though :bigsmile:
Hi Dave - The dyno shop loaned me the carb plate they used to load the engine back in my truck. I used chains on the heads to load it. With the chains, the engine was probably over a foot lower off the loader than it is with the carb plate. I got to measuring tonight, and think I can get the loader on my tractor high enough to back the boat under it, whilst the ZZ is dangling :shocked: Only glitch is, with the loader all the way up, the center of the engine will only be about 3 feet from the front of the tractor. So I need to rig up an extension, to get the engine out in front of the tractor another 12-14 inches. So, I might have the install problem solved Once the ZZ is in the boat I can take it and have the alignment checked.Blue Thunder said:Well its about time! I bought an engine hoist from harbor freight and added a ram extension. Works great and it was cheap. Other than that you can come over here and I'll put it in for you. I get the first ride though :bigsmile:
Nope. I've always taken the boat to Stern Drive Specialists (used to be a SW advertiser I think) for OD service/check up, and alignment. I've never even seen an alignment tool usedRSCHAP1 said:No alignment tool ?
The motor rarely goes back in exactly as it came out. Minor adjustments may be all you need but you will need to check it.OPtimus Prime said:Question? If you never moved the nuts do you have to re-align?
I assume it's better safe than sorry but just wondering.
That's my plan now. I have a 2 ton come-a-long I can use. Back of the boat is about 5 1/2 feet off the ground. Carb plate to the bottom of the oil pan is about 2 1/2 feet. Bucket raises to about 9 feet, and will go about 3 feet over the boat. Just need to figure out how to get about another foot up, and another foot in over the boat. Think I have a way to do it23concept said:When I used my tractor to pull and replace the engine I had to attach a block and tackle to the bucket. Once over the engine compartment I used the block and tackle to lower it in, and it was pretty easy and I was doing it myself. It moves easily and slow so it gives you plenty of time and movement to align things as you are dropping it down in. Just a thought.
Ha worth a shot!....keep me posted on when you are heading up. Btw. for that extra foot do something like Tack said, just park the trailer in a hole and let the air out of the trailer tiresKidnova said:
Eliot - I tried that. Engine ended up side down in the bilge. Wouldn't idle for schidt :laugher: Hope to see you up at camp in August
Hey Dave, thanks for the offer to help. I really appreciate it allot !! Bucket off would shorten the forward reach so that won't do it. I'm pretty sure I can rig up a height and length extension on the bucket that will do the job. Just gotta find the time at this point.Tack said:Kid, great to hear it is going in soon. Take your tires and wheels off your trailer and set the trailer on the hubs (1x6 under hubs) and raise your tongue all the way up with the trailer jack. Will probably give you another foot of clearance at the stern. Also, how hard is it to remove the bucket? Would that give you the clearance you need to lower the tractor arms into the boat? Good luck, and if you need an extra set of hands, I'm sure a few of us locals can make some time to help get it in there.
what actually sits on the transome plate.... the spring, or washer ? Or, which (or who ) is on top ?obnoxus said:fiber washer and spring go on the transom plate,,,, then set the motor,,, then the big spacer, washer and bolt go in