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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Some of you know by reading my thread that I had motor issues last Saturday.
http://www.speedwake.com/upload/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57372

I was getting water in cyl #6.
The cause was un known, but the thought pattern was:
Leaking Headers - nope
Blown Head gasket - nope
Cracked Head - nope
Cracked block - nope

Well, . . . . . such is my luck!!
Just got off the phone w/ Joey Griffin. He said he has never seen anything like it. (Uh-Oh here it comes)
He said the water passages in the heads are all eaten up. Head gasket is fine. He asked me what I flushed my motor with. I told him I flush EVERY TIME w/ fresh city water for about 5 - 10 minutes then flush w/ Salt Away for a few more minutes and then leave Salt Away mixture in motor as recommended on label.
Motors were rebuilt in '05 and now have 100 hours on them. Heads were fine then.
Those that know me, know that I am religous about flushing my motors!!! How can a head get eaten up in 3 years?

Joey Griffin recommends the new Edlebrock alum heads as they are coated like the Merc heads.

Well I don't "think" I'll make the HRPA Poker Run.

Also on a side note - Maybe there is something in salt away that is bad. Might want to use straight water when you flush your motors from now on.

Just found this: http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=202617
 

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I have seen you do it, I would of thought you could drink the water coming out of those motors as clean as you keep them.

But then again I always run back into fresh and flush my motors about 3 times a year and mine never rusted up or got hurt.

So I guess you won't be buying any more salt away huh?

Sorry about your bad luck Bill.
 

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Which heads did you have? Did you use the Salt Away before the motors were rebuilt?

As far as Merc heads being "coated", which factory Merc heads come with a coating? I think Edlebrock makes Merc's aluminum heads, and I'm pretty sure anything Merc with aluminum heads is closed cooling, which negates the need for a coating.

Most aluminum heads are either offered with or can be hard anodized for protection.

Not just salt water, but any hard mineral fresh water could probably do some serious damage to aluminum. I've seen a lot of "fresh water" boat parts look a heck of a lot worse than high hour salt water pieces.
 

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BillR wrote: "Joey Griffin recommends the new Edlebrock alum heads as they are coated like the Merc heads."

You have Merc 575's right?

were those heads not coated?
 

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Your heads became the sacrificial anode.l Too bad !

Did you have these same exact heads before the rebuild ? Or did you have cast iron ?

Do you have the Merc electronic anode thing - Mercathode ?

Do you/or did you drain the engines each time after flushing or did they stay full ?

BTW: AFR, Canfield, and Dart offer hard anodized aluminum heads - not just Edelbrock.

And I always push people to get hard anodizing even in fresh water use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I had stock merc heads. I am pretty sure they are not aluminium or coated. Joey Griffin is recommending Edelbrock coated aluminum heads.

Boat is NEVER left in water

Yes I have Mercathode - 2 new units in fact
Yes I also have header drains as of last winter.

From what I am today finding out - salt away may not be too good for your motor. Same thread topic is on OSO and it is an interesting read.
 

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I'm definately all ears ! Will be very interesting !

Was just trying to find out what other changes where made from then to now.

I, for one, appreciate info. Thanks and , of course sorry about your issue. :unhappy1:
 

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It is the city chlorinated water used and salt away, My friend had the same results as you, so he repaired and got lazy, never flushed with city water again, he mixed in Glycol to flush engines and perfect results. Just alittle will do if you are having these problems listed. I also winterize with 50/50 and store full to the gills with 50/50 glycol. Never had any problems. Good luck bud. Pink anti freeze will not work the same, must be green.

Solo :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Solo said:
It is the city chlorinated water used and salt away,
I guess - regular drinking water and Salt Away.
 

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That sucks Bill. If you go with the aluminum heads get them anodized. I had my AFRs done for $170.00. Cheap insurance IMHO..

Good Luck with the rebuild..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Rattlesnake Jake said:
That sucks Bill. If you go with the aluminum heads get them anodized. I had my AFRs done for $170.00. Cheap insurance IMHO..

Good Luck with the rebuild..
They are. That is why Joey Griffin recommended them.
 

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BillR said:
Oh Schit !!!!!

I hate to ask, but must, how's the block ? (I'll be Chewin' on my nails until I here.)


BTW: I busted a string of car dealerships (it started from ours :dead: ) that had motors with eatin' heads and blocks on newer cars. Turns out we had the same anitfreeze distributor and manufacturer.

Guess who the *** was when it was all said and done - ie: when I made it public after a kazzillion hrs of research ?????????????

Me. No one else would own up. :dead: :dead:
 

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BillR said:

Also on a side note - Maybe there is something in salt away that is bad. Might want to use straight water when you flush your motors from now on.

Someone should tell the U.S. Navy. They use this stuff to flush engines. :rolleyes:

But seriously, it sounds more like you ran through some pretty acidic waters to have that happen.
 

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I would consider installing closed cooling. If the block is started to go, this will only slow the process. Not to mention it is just a good idea if running in salt water.
 

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So it sounds like the combination of salt + saltaway + chlorinated water must of made ACID...

But is it not possible that it was just a fluke??, possibly the head just came from a bad casting??
 

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Salt Away is nothing more than a mild acid. You can buy it a lot cheaper at home depot. It contains a small amount of sulfamic acid which is used to clean grout off tile (ask Cuda). It has very similar acidic properties as vinagar, even tastes like it (yes, I dipped a finger and tasted some since it says its safe for consumption). I looked into this when I noticed that salt away was slightly removing the tanin stains on my hull just like vinagr does. It is so diluted that I highly doubt it is the cause of your problem. I really think you have a stray electrical current issue or could you ave got some bad heads when your motors were rebuilt 100 hours ago?
Here is the MSDS for Salt Away http://www.sharecorp.com/msds/0710SaltAway.pdf
PS. If you want to test the salt away mix as directed in a glass and drop a nail in it. Check back in a week. I bet it looks good.
 
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