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185 xlt differences

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#422 ·
Got a couple quick questions for you guys.

The foam in between the stringers and under the fore deck, I assume it is there for sound deadening/resonance dampening? Should it be put back, that noticeable?

I was speaking with one of my co-workers about my frozen drive, which I did manage to pull last night w/o pulling the motor. Anywho he brought up that he has a complete Bravo 1 unit 1.5 ratio he didn't use on his project, I can probably get it cheap. I would like to raise X and know that is a more readily available option than hoping for an Alpha SS to show up one day. Any recommendations here? I have done "vs" research and seems the Bravo is tougher and more versatile (expensive), but weighs more. Just thought I'd try to get your opinions on this.

Thanks,
Chad
 
#423 · (Edited)
WN said:
tdaddy how do you raise your x?
Click to expand...
Chainsaw and glue... lol. Removed everything in and on rear of boat. Plugged and glued include plugs that filled the drive and exhaust holes. Measure ten times cut once lol cut out new drive hole and exhaust holes 2" higher. Painted bilge area and transom.. install everything back on and walllla all done. Had around $450-$500 into all materials.
Posted via Speedwake Mobile
Here is a thread I did on it

http://speedwake.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62879&highlight=tdaddy185xlt
 
#425 ·
Looking good! Seems like everyone is jumping on the diamond plate bandwagon, I will be too :laugher:

When I do my floors I had in mind to make everything removeable, do any of you guys know if this will hurt the characteristics of the boat?
 
#426 · (Edited)
When I had my floor done I decided not to have a ski locker... I figure it was just another way for water to cause issues like they did before... But I got lucky with the stringers still being rot free.

Storage is a problem with my boat... but Im rebuilding the bench seat structure a little different for storage purposes and I plan on using the sides of the engine for random storage also. Ill post pics of the process.
 
#427 ·
woogie said:
On two pieces of orig. paper mine are slightly different but I guess they mean the same thing... one has the letter E and the other replaces the E with number 6. I'm May 89'. Back then you could go over to the plant ..before all the EPA codes..and get a contact buzz. XLT's then were 2 weeks in the mold.

PPN10331E989 and PPN103316989
Click to expand...
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#429 ·
Chrisf695 said:
When I had my floor done I decided not to have a ski locker... I figure it was just another way for water to cause issues like they did before... But I got lucky with the stringers still being rot free.

Storage is a problem with my boat... but Im rebuilding the bench seat structure a little different for storage purposes and I plan on using the sides of the engine for random storage also. Ill post pics of the process.
Click to expand...
No problems with a locker as long as you encapsulate all wood you'd be fine, I think that's where the original problem was, they did not epoxy or wrap the tops of the stringers with glass, had they done this, chances for rot would have been minimal...
 
#430 ·
So if I wanted my lock back... all I really need to do is just make the cut and then epoxy the edges then? I know the guy who did the floor left the locker in place under the floor. After everything is said and done I take on that project.
 
#433 ·
IS that lacquer/spot putty?
Does that stick well enough?
Last spring I used a couple small spots on the nose of my jet ski.
A couple weeks later the edges showed cracking...
I didn't do the best prep job then, but was told I had to use epoxy resin to stick to the material the ski was made of.
Not sure if the glass and gel of your boat is in that category too or not.
I am in the process now of finishing up a much more extensive repair, but did not have good luck with the spot putty and won't be using it on my ski again.
Just wondering if it holds up on gel or if you are using something different I may not even know about...
 
#434 ·
RSCHAP1 said:
IS that lacquer/spot putty?
Does that stick well enough?
Last spring I used a couple small spots on the nose of my jet ski.
A couple weeks later the edges showed cracking...
I didn't do the best prep job then, but was told I had to use epoxy resin to stick to the material the ski was made of.
Not sure if the glass and gel of your boat is in that category too or not.
I am in the process now of finishing up a much more extensive repair, but did not have good luck with the spot putty and won't be using it on my ski again.
Just wondering if it holds up on gel or if you are using something different I may not even know about...
Click to expand...
It's west system low density filler with an underlying wet out coat
 
#440 ·
RSCHAP1 said:
sharp!!
Click to expand...
Thanks!

The gray and teal strips are still the original from 89'. The upholstery girl said they were in great condition so she reused them. The side panels I ended up doing my self(no sewing required) and the sunpad, bench seat and backing were done by her.

Now Im getting the bench structure re-built.
 

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