WHAT CAN YOU USE TO PAINT A BOAT? DOES IT HAVE TO BE GELCOAT? DO OTHER PAINTS PEEL OR CHIP OFF?
OldMagicfloat
Automotive basecoat / clearcoat systems are best. You can use a single stage polyurethane or enamel system if you choose, but the former is easier and more user friendly.The other advantage to the base/clear is that it is easier to colorsand and polish and touch up than the latter.
Gelcoat has none of these characteristics and is not recommended for refinishing for more reasons than I care to go into. It's tougher than paint, but at what cost?
If you have further questions, feel free to contact me on the phone at my studio, 269-795-2228.
Mitcher T.
Gelcoat has none of these characteristics and is not recommended for refinishing for more reasons than I care to go into. It's tougher than paint, but at what cost?
If you have further questions, feel free to contact me on the phone at my studio, 269-795-2228.
Mitcher T.
How do you keep the paint from tearing when you pull the tape off? The reason I ask is I clearcoated a car once and then let it dry before removing the masking tape. Then when I went to pull off the tape it pulled up the clear in a few places and I had to redo the the door. Since then I pull off the tape directly after spraying. Also do you clear the entire boat, or just the areas that you painted graphics / artwork? I've been thinking about spraying some graphics on my boat if I don't sell it soon. I was thinking about just masking it off about 1/4 inch from the bottom and 1/4 inch above and bellow the rub rail and clearing the entire area after graphics.
Glassman,,, you are a very lucky man,,, you couldnt have a more knowledgeable person answering your questions !!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the compliments, everybody! I'll answer these questions in a few hours, I have to leave for a little while , but I'll get back on as soon as possible.
OK, it sounds to me like you aren't getting adhesion. If your surface was contaminated by oil, silicon, etc. or hadn't been sanded or roughed up well enough, these factors can cause poor adhesion. I learned a long time ago that adhesion promotors and sealers are cheap insurance to creating a succesful paint job.Glassman said:
In general, when you are painting over a preexisting automotive finish, and the surface has been prepped correctly, then you shouldn't need adhesion promotors. However, on gelcoat it is a different story. Gelcoat is an excellent subbase to begin with, but it needs to be agressively sanded and sealed with adhesion promoter in order to insure not only adhesion for the paint but also to prevent water permeability and migration when the paint is exposed to the elements like it is. We have been doing test pilot work for BASF on their process and have had no adhesion problems or lifting since taking them on. We clear with Transtar clearcoat and also have had great success.
I'm assuming that when you were painting on your car, you were using a polyurethane base/clear system, and that is what my answers are based on. If you were using a lacquer system or a straight single stage urethane system, then there are other variables that could be involved in addition to these above. But these are the most common of the factors.
If you have further questions, let me know.
Mitch:gunner:
in response to your question about clearcoating gelcoat or just graphics.................
I strategically try to design paint schemes to best serve the user of the boat. I clearcoat over all graphics, and if the gelcoat needs to be clearcoated, we generally attempt to paint the gel first with the white that matches the boat and the age of the boat. Gelcoat doesn't have great UV protection, so it has a fade factor involved by the age of the boat. Clearing the gel directly will retard the process, but it won't stop it. Paint has excellent UV protection and will not fade, or will fade very little over a much longer period of time, so again, for the cost of a new base with paint I get better piece of mind regarding adhesion and color-fastness, and a lot better sleep at night.
On deck surfaces of boats that may have heavy traffic, i.e. a family boater as opposed to a high performance boat with only two passegers, or a lower priced job as opposed to a high dollar job, I try to design areas that will be more responsive to traffic and leave a few paths open for walking down the deck so as to avoid the problem of damaging a paint job.
I strategically try to design paint schemes to best serve the user of the boat. I clearcoat over all graphics, and if the gelcoat needs to be clearcoated, we generally attempt to paint the gel first with the white that matches the boat and the age of the boat. Gelcoat doesn't have great UV protection, so it has a fade factor involved by the age of the boat. Clearing the gel directly will retard the process, but it won't stop it. Paint has excellent UV protection and will not fade, or will fade very little over a much longer period of time, so again, for the cost of a new base with paint I get better piece of mind regarding adhesion and color-fastness, and a lot better sleep at night.
On deck surfaces of boats that may have heavy traffic, i.e. a family boater as opposed to a high performance boat with only two passegers, or a lower priced job as opposed to a high dollar job, I try to design areas that will be more responsive to traffic and leave a few paths open for walking down the deck so as to avoid the problem of damaging a paint job.
Awesome, thanks for the reply/answers. Yes I was refering to base coat clear coat system on the car in question. Also I didn't on that car in question but since then I use adhesion promoter (Bull Dog) on everything I paint. Here is a picture of my first custom paint job I did last year. Pretty plain and simple but for a self taught ameatur in a two car garage, it came out pretty good. I plan on doing something a little more elaborate with fades and shadows on my boat or van or something here soon!! Thanks again!!
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Ok this looks like the place to ask.. I have to paint a 24 footer with very dry chalky porous gel coat ..Its white and im gonna sray it white down to the water line..
What do I need to do to this gel for good adhesion ..Ive done a couple halfa$$ed paint jobs a while back but I have no clue as to what grit and stage es to sand this thing ..Adhesion promoters ?What primer if any ? What paint ? I dont want to have to clear it looking for good shine low maintenance ..Will be adding some graphics later .. Thanks in advance
What do I need to do to this gel for good adhesion ..Ive done a couple halfa$$ed paint jobs a while back but I have no clue as to what grit and stage es to sand this thing ..Adhesion promoters ?What primer if any ? What paint ? I dont want to have to clear it looking for good shine low maintenance ..Will be adding some graphics later .. Thanks in advance
Call me at my studio sometime this week. I'll have several questions for you before I can answer you with the best solution.
Mitcher
269-795-2228
Mitcher
269-795-2228
I paint alot of the Liberator cats I sell. I always use basecoat-clearcoats. You just need to prep it correctly. Lots of pics under "CUSTOM PAINTJOBS" on my website. http://liberatorfl.tripod.com
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