I don't think you have to run the return line if you get the right pump



I ran the line back to the tank from the fuel presure regulator to overcome a vapor lock issue.

MM

 

I'm running the marine Aeromotive electric pump.(black)



http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?prod=44

 

Using Universal Bypass Regulator with a return line to the tank.

http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?prod=15

 

Noise your link does not work. I have the red pump. Let me get a photo of it.

 

Here is the one I have. This is the one I would need some info on how to run it. Like do I need a relay,return line?

 

The link works now NP.

 

Mallory makes a 70gph or 110gph marine pump that does not require a return line and has a adjustable internal regulator. run between 145 & 200.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MAA-4070M&N=700+115&autoview=sku

or

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MAA-4110M&N=700+115&autoview=sku

 

I have been thinking about this one. It is preset at 7 psi.

http://www.cpperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=3644

 

HP, How to wire Fuel Pump

 

I have been thinking about this one. It is preset at 7 psi.

http://www.cpperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=3644

I've been running that pump for years with no problems and no return.

 

I've been running that pump for years with no problems and no return.

Thanks.

 

HP, How to wire Fuel Pump

Thanks NP, I saved that. Now I got to get the pump and start wire it up.

 

While running the return back to the tank is the most convenient and is the proper way to run a return line, everything I have found says that it is not USCG approved and could be an issue if you have a fuel system related claim.

 

HP - I'm no fuel pump guru but did do some research on both elec and mech pumps before I finally decided on what to get.

Electric pumps do not like to "pull" fuel. They like to push the fuel. Therefore, as I understand it, the electric pump should be located level with the bottom of the tank if possible, or as close to that position as possible. I found most need a return line to the tank and regulator. And they need a relay. Too "busy" for my liking.

I bought a CV Products mechanical pump, model cv2630 for marine use, mounts to the sea water pump. They are pricey. But they're reliable and totally rebuild-able. Billet too, if you care about the bling thing. I spoke to Kevin Enders of Enders Racing Engines here in NY State about fuel pumps, after he dyno'd my engine yesterday . Enders is probably the top winning circle track engine builder in NY. Kevin Enders told me he puts CV pumps on 95% of his engines. I was real happy to hear that, because I had already shelled out the $$ for the CV pump

Link to CV below if you're interested .... The marine pump looks like the CV2715. However the marine version is #CV2630. And you should run a regulator with this pump. I couldn't get a pic of the marine pump to show up. Happy shopping

http://www.cvproducts.com/cv/products/brands.aspx?brandID=18

 

Thanks NP, I saved that. Now I got to get the pump and start wire it up.

You'll need a 40 amp relay. If you have any questions email me. As Kidnova said mount the pump as low as you can get it.
I did use all stainless braided line. The blus was just for dry fit.

 

The pic below is the uscg wire diagram for an electric fuel pump.

BGIII, Correct....The return line is considered a drain from the fuel system.

From the uscg:

FEDERAL LAW

183.556 - Plugs and fittings

(a) A fuel system must not have a fitting for draining fuel.

There shall be no fitting or component in the fuel system with the purpose of draining fuel from the fuel system. Fuel tank drains, valves or plugged tee fittings in fuel lines, and drain or bleed valves at engine connections are prohibited
--------------------------------

Allot of big shops, riggers and boat builders do not follow this either:

183.566 - Fuel pumps: Placement

Each fuel pump must be on the engine it serves or within 12 inches of the engine, unless it is a fuel pump used to transfer fuel between tanks.

Most engines are equipped by the engine manufacturer with a fuel pump as an installed engine component. For engines that are not so equipped, a remote fuel pump, usually electric, may be used. In order to keep the length of the pressurized portion of the fuel distribution line at a minimum, it is required that a remote fuel pump be installed within 12-inches of the engine. The 12-inches are measured directly to the engine, not along the fuel line.

Pumps used to transfer fuel from one tank to another may be installed in other locations, and are not required to be within 12 inches of the engine.
-------------------------------------------------

Another one that most use is braided stainless lines. None are type A1 SAE Standard J1527 DEC85, Also they do not correctly display the type of fuel line. CG has a rule on that as well. The only braided type line by aeroquip is page 16 fc234 http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/A-HOAQ-MC001-E.pdf

Here are all of the fuel regs by the uscg:

http://www.uscgboating.org/safety/boatbuilder/fuel/fuel.htm

 

You would have close to a zero chance of a insurance fire claim (regardless how it started) if a fuel return line is found.

 

The pic below is the uscg wire diagram for an electric fuel pump.

You are better off using a relay in the system I have shown in post 10. No voltage is going through the presure switch. Just using it as a path to ground. just my .02

 

Unless the pump draws allot of amps ( most don't), there is no reason for a relay, other than like you said, not running power through the oil pressure switch. But running power through it does no harm, it was designed to run that way following the uscg guidline. Merc has been running there electric pumps with no relay for a long time now.

Not saying it is bad or wrong, just not needed is all.