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Hatch lift switch

3.3K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  harddrive  
#1 ·
Guys,

The hatch lift switch on my 1990 Scarab fell apart. This is a round switch that is momentary on for up and down. I was a bit surprised to see the number of wires connected to it. I think there are 6 wires to the switch yet only two to the hatch motor. The plastic housing came apart all that is left is the wires with the blade ends still in the wires so there is no way to tell where they came from. I have two questions:

Does anyone know where to find a replacement switch?

Does anyone have a clue how to wire it?

Chevy57
 
#2 ·
Lenco sells a switch to go with their hatch lifter. It is a momentary up or down switch and it does it by reversing polarity. The back of the switch has 6 terminals. It is part # 125 (Single Rocker Switch) and it comes with wiring instructions. If your lifter has 2 wires, it will probably work.

Call them at 772.288.2662 and ask for Jeff in Tech Services. He can tell you more.

I also have the wiring instructions, but they are at my summer home. The soonest I could scan it would be next week at this time.

goldnrod
 
#4 ·
#7 ·
yup, jumpers as shown. A safer way of doign this is through relays. Mount the relays as close as possible to the hatch motor to get the most juice possible to the motor instead of the current running from the battery......to the switch......and back tot he hatch motor.....lots of loss in those long runs :)
 
#8 ·
Wally said:
yup, jumpers as shown. A safer way of doign this is through relays. Mount the relays as close as possible to the hatch motor to get the most juice possible to the motor instead of the current running from the battery......to the switch......and back tot he hatch motor.....lots of loss in those long runs :)
Thanks Wally,

I understand the relay deal, but its in a Baja, so its not worth the effort :laugher: :laugher: :laugher:

Just Joking guys, dont get your panties all bunched up :D :D

Rick
 
#11 ·
Ok, if anyone wants to do it the safe way i drew this up realy quick. Basicly the way this works is that all the hatch triggers are a negative signal.....that way you dont have any live wires shorting anything out form long runs back to the relays or to the motor. And this way you only need one fuse for the 12v power supply to the relays :)
 

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#12 ·
Wally said:
Ok, if anyone wants to do it the safe way i drew this up realy quick. Basicly the way this works is that all the hatch triggers are a negative signal.....that way you dont have any live wires shorting anything out form long runs back to the relays or to the motor. And this way you only need one fuse for the 12v power supply to the relays :)
OH GREAT!!!!!!!

Just what this boat needs.............

MORE FRIKKEN WIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just Joking, I know that is the safest way to do it, I Build Medical equipment, and on our equipment we use relay controls, some even have a second redundant set, controlled by a lock out key so the doc doesnt accidentally "LEAN" on a button, and move the Biopsy needle while it is still inserted in the tissue.................


OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Yes,

One idiot DR did this, and now we have to have lockouts on the motors :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I guess that is why they say they are "PRACTICING" medicine :laugher: :laugher: :laugher:

Practice makes perfect I guess :confused: :confused:
 
#13 ·
You know what the call the lowest ranked student in the graduating class at Medical school?........................................... Doctor!
Check them out just like every other professional you hire! Make sure he was not #99 out of a class of 99!

Hope your switch works out! PLAY HARD! WORK HARD!