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Jayl13 said:

I hopefully will have this done at the end of October I am hoping to have the clear on it and have it finished.
As far as the wood working for the new gunnel parts, that might have to get done the weekend after but the boat should be finished being painted by October 31
J
I could do a rain dance, that would slow you down and give me an edge since I'm in the garage. :D
 
Jayl13 said:

one last thing, why in the hell would my airbrush paint peel right off the silver about an hour after applying it?
Silver was sprayed the day before and cured for a full 24 hrs prior to airbrushing it. (no matter those airbrush colors are coming off anyway but dont want this to happen again) Do I lightly sand the silver or undercolor with 600 prior to applying a top coat on top of paint?
I used frisket film so not to be too tacky and lift the silver which was fine, no silver lifted from frisket film BUT the airbrush paint did however in some spots.
J

Jay, did you wipe down the silver with Naptha or something before airbrushing?
 
Jayl13 said:
Only part that is rusted is the part where the weld broke, the rest of the outer part of it is clean.
Just wipe it and shoot it bro!
(then again steel trailers rust from the INSIDE LOL)
J
Check and see what they charge in your area to powder coat it. I painted my trailer and by the time I was done with sand paper, primer and paint I would have saved money to have it powder coated.
 
Discussion starter · #112 ·
Trailer was built in 1989
Wont bother with thats one, maybe if I got a new one but this one is not worth it.

I just figured I might dab some color on it for its last year of service before it rusts out and becomes unstable.
J
 
Aqua-Holic said:
Jay...why don't you shoot the primer question to Mitcher? I bet he would know:)

Sorry for offering up advice Jay, I guess I should have know better to try and help here. I guess unless your name is MitcherT, then what kind of business you own and what you do for a living don't mean s**t. Wow, I have been painting for 10 years, own my own business for 6 years and do not know anything, I guess I better sell and find a job...........
 
Discussion starter · #115 ·
Shamless your input IS appreciated!
I was looking forward to what you had to say.
I did buy the paint last night, Interlux topside polyurethane and I did get the spray reducer for it as well.
It even said for fiberglass, no priming is necessary but I think even though it says that, it might adhere to the surface of primer better than just the bare gel.
I looked at the primers they had there and I felt for the money any sandable primer would be sufficient.
I dont need a gallon of interlux primer so I will stop at HD to get some sand paper and some primer to shoot the rest of the boat prior to applying the yeller on there unless someone has a reason why NOT to prime these surfaces that makes sense.
J
 
Jay,

i'm going to venture out and say that anything the "common" person can buy in HD or Lowes is not good enough.

all of the really good stuff you have to buy through a paint distributor like body shops do.

what i was told to use is a good epoxy sealer/primer. they can only be purchased from distributors.

maybe shameless or MitcherT can provide you with a brand name. as far as i know though, all epoxy sealers can be used on fiberglass, metal, etc.
 
Jayl13 said:
How do you know which one is the right one?
I figured a self etching primer would be the correct material to apply
The Primer that is manufactured by the same company as the Paint, and says it is compatible on the can :D :D :D

Self etching is for METAL, so that you dont have to etche the bare Metal before priming, you aint worried about no rust with fiberglass!!!! You are just worried about color bleed thru, and the slight surface adhesion advantage that a primer will give you over just putting paint on the glass. If the Fiberglass is not prepared, the primer wont stick either!!!
 
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