it is possible the block is cracked internally and when put under load and high water pressure it is pushing water into the oil. the block can be pressure tested but requires the internals to be removed to test properly. ask the machinist who did the head what you need to do to have it tested.

 

Cracked exhaust manifold on that side? Is it run in salt water?

 

I would have guessed exhaust too, but you said that the manifold was replaced. No gasket or sealing issues there? Manifold to riser leak? That would get into cylinders too. Runs good other than the milky oil? If the head and exhaust are good, not much else left outside the block

 

It definitely sounds like an internal crack. When the boat is under power there is more stress. The engine especially an inline 3.0 tends to flex under power.

Unfortunately, it sounds like you will need to take out the engine.

This could have happened 2 ways, improper winterization or many hours of saltwater use and not being flushed continuously.

 

I believe your right to! Thanks for everyones help. If there is a crack, is it repairable?

Is it possible to pressure check the block?

 

**Update**

Still have the same problem with water in the oil. Have taken the head off and made visual checks, all seems fine (this has already been pressure tested and skimmed).

The pistons and face of the block look fine to. Blocked all of the water lets and used air to pressure test - still couldnt see or hear anything (had a pipe inside the dipstick).

Really runnning out of ideas now. Were going to have the head tested again to double check they did actual test it.

Anyone with any other ideas?

 

i would pull the manifold and riser, separate them and check for cracks which you can do by filling the water jackets up with water and watching to see if the levels go down. Those manifolds and risers are prone to hairline cracks that will open up more when the boat is under use in the water and the entire engine gets up to temp. off the top of my head i know we replaced 3 manifolds and risers last year on those motors.

 

As previously said, the manifold has been replaced and a visual inspection carried out on the riser.

Surely more water would be spat out of the exhaust than that gettin in the block, im not talkin a small amount of water either, the oil gets turned white!

 

It only takes a very small amount of water to turn the oil white. With 5 qts of oil a half pint of water will make it turn white.

 

Get the block and head magnafluxed. They are cast iron and are throw away components. The cheaper alternative would be to just swap out the 5qts of oil ($10 per flush) at some regular interval until your ready to replace the engine with a salvage unit. If it lets go then so be it, you're looking at less money to just drop in a longblock 3.0L

 

I have the engine out of my scarab....3.0l LX complete....Want it? Runs great, just not powerful enough for me. It's sitting on a pallet right next to me. Always changed oil and plugs every year. Never had a single problem. Brand new starter

let me know.

NATRLBNKLR@aol.com

 

Last time I checked on a 3.0 Longblock my cost as a dealer was $4300. They are far more expensive than a small or even some big blocks, the companies can not get enough cores to make the price go down.

 

yes they are. When I was looking to hotrod this thing I found a company that does them up with porting and cam yada yada...$6k

Even a short block on egay is around $2500...ouch

Alfy1987...email me. I'll hook you up with a smokin deal. I need parts $$ for my 4.3 build. i'll give you any info u need.

 

Ok an update!

So the head has been tested and that was fine, we have now completely removed the engine from the boat and stripped the bottom end.

Had the block tested and has come back fine also.

All i can presume is we originally had water come up through the exhaust due to a missing flap and this left water has never been cleared!

Can anyone think of anything i might be missing here! Could a bad starter cause this problem?

It feels like ill put alot of effort into putting the engine all back together and then have the same problem?

The previous owners apparently had an oil pump failure, so the cylinders have been bored with oversized pistons and new shells.

From also reading the original advertisement, the transom has been replaced?! Im not sure how relevant this it with relation to water in the oil? As i get the impression the issue with water in the oil is only when the boat is in the water and not running on the drive with ears!

Any further help is appreciated!

 

there is way more pressure when in the water running than on the earmuffs.. One thought is for some reason you have too much water pressure which can force water thru headgasket into engine . Get a water pressure gauge and see what it reads when you are actually running the boat. If thats not it you can just replace it.
Those motors are cheap as hell here. My buddy just bought a good running one for $100 on craigslist for his pontoon boat and I have seen quite a few nice running ones for $500-1000 on both craigslist and ebay. Then search for a good freight forwarder and you should be able to get it shipped to you for around 500-700 to the UK and keep yours for parts.

 

Ok an update!

So the head has been tested and that was fine, we have now completely removed the engine from the boat and stripped the bottom end.

Had the block tested and has come back fine also.

All i can presume is we originally had water come up through the exhaust due to a missing flap and this left water has never been cleared!

Can anyone think of anything i might be missing here! Could a bad starter cause this problem?

It feels like ill put alot of effort into putting the engine all back together and then have the same problem?

The previous owners apparently had an oil pump failure, so the cylinders have been bored with oversized pistons and new shells.

From also reading the original advertisement, the transom has been replaced?! Im not sure how relevant this it with relation to water in the oil? As i get the impression the issue with water in the oil is only when the boat is in the water and not running on the drive with ears!

Any further help is appreciated!

I have been told by an engine builder that these engines can crack behind the water pump(circulation pump) and they can be repaired with marine tex.

 

they are also VERY notorious for head gasket failure. Make sure you get a very good gasket set. You may want to get a flat edge and check the deck for squarness. i bet the block is warped now that it is seasoned. If it was cooked before then you have a good chance at that being your problem.